Sara Kerens

​Once known as a haven for large-chain dining, Carrollton is slowly changing, as more and more immigrants move there from Asia, and Central and South America. Drive down East Belt Line Road or Josey Lane and you will see taquerias aplenty, plus homey establishments that draw culinary inspiration from El Salvador, Ecuador, and Peru, to say nothing of the numerous Korean places scattered along Old Denton Drive. Most of these places are small, but they feature food that draws a fervent Carrollton following, and more discerning diners from Dallas, Frisco and Plano.

Inca's Café first opened in the heart of Carrollton as Esparzas in 2003, but later changed their name to Inca's, which makes clearer their devotion to Peruvian cuisine. Located in a tattered shopping strip just north of the George Bush, Inca's would doubtless do better business if located near a more moneyed part of Dallas. No matter that the streets outside are bumpy, and the dark foyer makes it unclear if the place is even open, simply tug on the door and prepare yourself for an outstanding South American repast. Inside, the boxlike interior is exotic, with gilt-edged touches and colorful artwork adorning the walls, culminating in a beautiful mural hung over the bar. I was greeted by the genial proprietor, who graciously assisted me throughout the entire meal, and offered insight into the world of Peruvian cuisine and its mélange of Asian, Italian, and pre-Columbian influences.More >>

​Once known as a city with a Tex-Mex establishment on every corner, Dallas and its burbs are now playing host to a virtual parade of Latin dining palaces. Here and there, you'll see Peruvian, Colombian, Caribbean, and even Ecuadorian places vying with El Fenix and Mi Cocina for Big D's dining dollar. Many of these establishments are strictly strip-mall, mom-and pop ops, while others, such as Zaguan Latin Café & Bakery, offer full table-service dining. Still, this cathedral of Venezuelan consumption should be considered first-and-foremost a bakery, for indeed the only culinary misstep I've encountered there was with the single dish I ordered in which pastry of some kind wasn't a part.

Unfortunately, that sole misfire was with Arroz Con Pollo, a dish done well at other establishments. Zaguan's version combined chicken, rice, peas, carrots, and corn, but unfortunately, the chicken was left too long on the grill and was therefore dry and almost flavorless. Luckily, the sweet fried plantains presented on the side were well executed.
Every other dish I've tried at Zaguan has proven successful. More >>

Chris Meesey

​Fearing, Pyles, Gottlich, Hage, Luscher. These are some of the names that are automatically given as answers whenever the question is asked, "Who is the best chef in Dallas?" They have all prepared thousands of wow-inducing meals for their grateful patrons, they have worked in some of the cities better establishments, some like Stephan Pyles and Dean Fearing have become stars by producing a series of well-received cookbooks for fans across the country. Mention the name of chef Tre Wilcox, and most likely the answer will be, "Oh, the Top Chef guy? He's an up-and-comer. So, what's he doing these days?" Well, a lot actually. Seems he's busy busting his chops at Loft 610, the mega lounge and restaurant complex by the Tollway in North Plano. And, based on a couple of meals I've had recently, he just might be ready to merit serious consideration in the pantheon of top Dallas chefs. More >>

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West, Texas, is not located in West Texas, rather it is a tiny Czech community on Interstate 35 some 15 miles north of Waco. It is known throughout the state as ground zero for kolaches, thanks to the presence of The Czech Stop and The Little Czech Bakery, which sells the sweet and savory rolls 24-7. (Longtime devotees of West's kolaches know about Gerik's Ole Czech Smokehouse just around the corner, which sells even better ones.) Like genuine Central Texas barbecue, it's hard to find really good, savory kolaches outside of a Czech or German community. Those cultures have longstanding traditions of smoking meats, and great meat is the key to a great kolache. (A fruit or sweet version will always put a smile on my face if done well.) Unwilling to make the trek to West but hungry for a Czech treat, I decided to try Kolache Heaven in Frisco.

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Recently I saw a comment on a food blog post that made the assertion that Jason's Deli wasn't as good as Katz's Deli in New York. I was puzzled by this, for to me the comparison seems rather foolish. Jason's Deli is a chain, while Katz's Deli is renowned throughout the nation as a shrine to pastrami, corned beef and such. Of course, Jason's is not as good because their meat doesn't have that deliciously brined flavor and buttery texture that truly great deli meat displays. My comrade Stephen Doyle's Toque to Toque article awhile back left me hungry for the kind of sandwich that only an honest-to-Manhattan place like Deli-News can deliver, but on this occasion I was pressed for time, so I decided to take advantage of takeout, as many good New Yorkers with parking issues would.

Walking in, I saw immediately that I had made the right decision, as the place was packed and there was not a table available. I had phoned in my order, and while I was waiting, I noticed that Deli-News employees were quite cheerful and operated with New York efficiency. No wasted motion or action, yet all done with a smile.

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This mole was so alive with flavor it shook the camera.

​The waiter sets down the photogenic plate of pollo con mole in front of me, and I behold once again the earthy, lavalike chocolate morass, oozing like primordial mud. The aroma wafts through my nostrils, and I quickly grab a forkful and savor its many-noted symphony of flavors, a hint of cinnamon here, a strong note of espresso there, and I sigh as I let the savory sensuality play over my palate.

And then I look down and sigh again, with a touch of disappointment. Yes, the rumor was true. Boneless chicken breasts.

When I first dined at Carolina's Mexican Cuisine shortly after it opened last year, one of the first dishes I sampled was the pollo con mole, for restaurants serving moles in Dallas are as rare as frosty days in July. Back then, an entire chicken leg was served with the sensuous sauce, and one of the true joys of consuming it was dipping the drumstick in mole, then gnawing the meat off the bone in caveman fashion. Mastication at its finest. On my latest visit, I discovered that the switch had indeed been made to breasts, perhaps to streamline ease of preparation. Yes, the dish is still a wonderful feast for the senses, just a little less so these days.

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​We Texans love our food hot and spicy, so it's somewhat surprising that we haven't taken to Indian cuisine as much as some other ethnic dishes as sushi or Kung Pao chicken. But on further reflection, we are probably overwhelmed by the staggering parade of unfamiliar dishes with hard-to-pronounce names such as allo baingan, khadi pakoda, or mutter paneer masala.

Like most people, we tend to go with what we know, which explains why there is a Tex-Mex restaurant on practically every street corner in Dallas, while there are comparatively few Indian establishments. However, my quest for fire knows no bounds, and since my appreciation of Indian food has grown recently, I decided to investigate Roti Grill.

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​Neighborhood gems add sparkle to any part of town. Of course, I'm referring to the restaurants and bars that make anyplace in the metroplex special. Many of these places have gained fans outside their area, but denizens of the neighborhood cherish them as uniquely theirs, welcome havens of rest that seem to beckon diners after a most tiring day.

In the Oak Lawn area, for example, there are Zaguan, Mias, and Lumi. Deep Ellum residents can count on Pepe and Mito's while Lemon Bar is already drawing crowds in the short time it has been open in the West Village. Whether relaxing or invigorating, patrons know they can count on the food, drinks and atmosphere to revitalize them.

My wife and I have come to regard Fino's Italian Bistro as one of these neighborhood icons. Opened just a year ago by Italian expatriates from New Jersey, Fino's delivers solid comfort food in a homey atmosphere that has already given them a loyal following. I found myself in need of comfort recently: the weather change, as it is wont to do, had set off my vertigo, and I felt out of sorts. I didn't know whether Finos would provide the cure, but it certainly wouldn't hurt.

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Have you ever had a meal that would have been just fine, had it just cost less?

Well, my wife and I were faced with that dilemma over the weekend, when we enjoyed brunch at Cyclone Anaya's Mexican Kitchen in Addison. Despite rumors that the quality had slipped badly since this branch of the Houston "Fine Mex" chain opened a year or so ago, the service wasn't bad, the décor excellent as always, particularly for a chain, and the food was as good as I remembered from prior visits.
Major sticking point though: Our brunch with drinks: $80.

I'm talking brunch.

And this is Cyclone Anayas. Not the Mansion.

Sticker shock.

We were seated in the main dining room, instead of the beautiful upscale cantina bar or the sumptuously appointed wraparound booths. Clearly, the décor suggests swank, the illusion only shattered by pictures of the restaurant's namesake from his wrestling days. The drink menu includes a good wine list and features bottomless mimosas and poinsettias for weekend brunch. My wife enjoyed the latter, which was good but not great. Thankfully, my Signature Cabo Wabo Reposado margarita was more satisfying --better than some of the more highly-touted versions at other establishments.

Still, it was 14 bucks!

For one. At least, it was a jumbo.

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​Greece may be getting a bad rap now for its mounting debt and its free and easy work ethic, but let's not forget this ancient civilization's contributions to democracy, literature, philosophy and salad.

And though you will not find as many Greek restaurants in Dallas as, say, Italian ones, the food of the Hellenic Republic has ardent adherents. Over the years, my wife and I have tried several of these establishments, but return time and again to Zorba's Greek Café for its warm welcome, excellent dishes, and most of all its affordability.

Zorba's storefront setting has been transformed into Athenian warmth through the liberal use of crockery hung on the walls and numerous photos and paintings displaying various aspects of Greek life. Wooden tables, chairs and multiple dining rooms that seem stitched together complete a scene that represents the interior of a private Grecian home.

Hummus is generally a great meal starter at Zorbas, but on this occasion, I was under-whelmed by the puree of Garbanzo beans, lemon juice, tahini, and garlic. Perhaps it was the memory of the robust, garlicky Mediterranean Hummus Supreme that we had enjoyed only a few weeks ago at Zea Woodfire Grill, but Zorbas version seemed rather tame by comparison. Luckily we had brought excellent wine (do-it-yourself, no-fee corkage), and the Becker Vineyards Prairie Rotie, a Rhone-style blend of carignan, mouvedre, and Grenache proved stout enough to stand on its own, as well as pairing well with our entrees.

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