This week Dave takes a trip to Japan, or something like it, with a few visits to Geisha House, where sushi, oyster shooters and, yes, real chopsticks come together under one roof. As he writes, some visits to the Uptown spot left him more inspired than others.
The furniture's bound to be pretty consistent, though, so for a faithful look at the atmosphere the place offers, check out this week's Dish slideshow.
In last week's cover story -- which, for the next few hours, you can still find on a newsstand near you -- Jesse walked through a few of Dallas's most authentic dive bars, from the "all hours mixed-use dive" (Starlight Lounge) to the "dive where even your grandparents might get kicked out" (Ships Lounge).
We covered 10 bars in all, but while narrowing down our list we had to define just what makes a dive bar. Cheap bear, wood paneling, video lottery and low-budget decorations are all some of the hallmarks -- all things you'll find in plentiful supply at Cooper's Club in Oak Cliff, where we filmed the video above. Check it out for a little more about what defines an authentic dive bar, and take a look around the bar. Of course, we've also got photos from each bar in the story, here in our slideshow.
Beyond the food, the place has style -- Chris Jeffers' snakeskin coat at the grand opening left no doubt about that -- and you can take a look around Smoke in this week's Dish slide show, by Sara Kerens.
An old shot of the new chef. I...um...forgot to bring my camera last night.
Chef Bruno Davaillon is eager to know what Dallas wants for dinner. At least that was the sentiment echoed by the wait staff and marketing department last night at a media dinner at the Mansion on Turtle Creek.
The Mansion staff has been asking recent patrons what they'd like to see on the menu--which makes their incoming chef sound like a culinary Phil Donahue. On the other hand, the restaurant may be willing to sacrifice a customer favorite for French-American fusion dishes.
We'll get to that later...
Davaillon took over as executive chef at the Mansion last Tuesday, and has already started incorporating new dishes into the menu created by his predecessor, the much loved...sorry, that was about to be tactless. Born and educated in France, Davaillon spent five years at executive chef at Mix at THEhotel at Mandalay Bay in Las Vegas where he earned Michelin stars in 2008 and 2009. When I spoke briefly with Davaillon last night, he was proud (I think--he has a heavy accent) of all his additions to the menu, especially the Atlantic cod with a French potato brandade and lemon caper sauce. He was enthusiastic about the upcoming changes to the menu, and Mansion staff told me the completely reinvented menu will appear in three weeks.
We mentioned Dave's trip to C.T.'s Real Deal BBQ in South Dallas yesterday, where he dove into some mean brisket and fried catfish -- and you'll find the rest of those shots in this week's Dish slideshow.
Herein you'll also find dishes fit for carnal temptation sandwiched between two unsettling eating contests (one of which featured several brave souls from the Observer). Jump for more of the month's best food porn here on City of Ate.
In this week's issue of the Observer, Dave gets his fill of southern surf 'n' turf at C.T.'s Real Deal BBQ, where bail bondsman-turned-restaurateur Corey Toney's scrap with the city over renovations seems like small news next to the fried catfish and hickory-smoked meats.
For more extreme meat close-ups, with sides included, check out this week's Dish slideshow with photos by Sara Kerens.
A glob of whipped cream escapes from one of Trinity Christian Academy's hungriest competitors.
Norma's Cafe broke out of Oak Cliff with a gut-busting bang at a grand opening for their North Dallas location Thursday night, hosting a pie-eating throwdown between two high school teams and an epic chicken-fried steak giveaway.
In the strip mall parking lot at Dallas Parkway and Trinity Mills Road, five eaters from Plano's Prestonwood Christian Academy edged out Addison's Trinity Christian Academy in a five-minute contest officiated by Norma's owner Ed Murph. The cartload of lemon meringue and chocolate cream pies cleared out quickly, first in the official race and then in a series of unsanctioned pie-tossing ambushes around the parking lot.
Even before unloading all those pies, Norma's committed itself to handing out free chicken-fried steaks for a year to 100 lucky (doomed?) winners -- but we've been led to understand that, the Norma's Cafe will expect people to offer some sort of payment.
Check out more photos from the event -- with some serious pie carnage -- here in our slideshow.
York Street's windy meadows chicken, thyme-roasted on East Texas pinto beans stew
This week Dave visits York Street in East Dallas, where Sharon Hage bucks tradition across the board, from the restaurant's location and signage, right on into the kitchen.
Are we reading too much into the presentation if we see two bat signals drizzled onto the plate?
If you haven't caught it already on a street corner near you, check out Dave's column in this week's paper, with his take on Dragonfly, the classy spot at the Hotel Zaza that's easily got the best "No shoes, no shirt, no service" sign in town.
Appearances count at Dragonfly, so once you've read the review, you'll want to be sure and check out Sara Kerens' easy-on-the-eyes Dish slideshow as well.
One of four -- count 'em, four -- salads on Urbino's menu.
This week Dave visits Henderson Avenue's new Urbino Pizza e Pasta, where owner David Pedack delivers to his neighbors in an electric ZAP car, but the friendly waitstaff make a visit in person worthwhile.
For a look around the new place, including that special place in the kitchen where pizzas come from, check out our Dish slideshow from Sara Kerens.
Rudy "the Civilian" Almaguer, who trained for the event with a visit to Plucker's last weekend.
When we got word that WFAA's Good Morning Texas was looking for suckers contestants to enter a televised wing eating contest, it sounded like the right time to reshuffle the speed-eating pecking order here at City of Ate.
While Jesse Hughey had a corn dog eating crown to defend, I thought I might settle the score, and it would mark the competitive eating debut for production man Ricky Fandrick, whose instant demolition of Ojeda's enchiladas plates have grown into office legend.
The only problem: the contest was live, not taped. And the name of the show isn't Good Lunchtime Texas. So at 9 a.m. yesterday, we took our seats beside two Arlington firemen, two local radio personalities and one recent grandfather with some serious chops.
Here's the Good Morning Texas video, and to see how the contest shook out, with a few more photos, read on after the jump.
Dave visits Carrollton's Tea Thyme & Tisane this week for the Obsever's Dish review, which combines a shop celebrating tea culture and an all-out restaurant with a down-home menu.
For a close-up look at the dishes, the teas and the related paraphernalia, check out this week's Dish Extra gallery from photographer Sara Kerens.
If Vimeo isn't cooperating, or if you prefer, you can check out the video here on YouTube.
In keeping with this year's "We Can Do It!" theme, focused on people doing great things in Dallas in the middle of a rough year for the country, Dave's story in the Best of Dallas issue (out on the street now!) focuses on a handful of chefs who keep a lower profile than the mega-chefs and reality TV personalities who get most of the attention.
You'll hear about that, and the success of the local food movement, from eight of those chefs who were good enough to come out to Dealey Plaza for our photo shoot--that's right, a shooting at Dealey Plaza--on an especially hot afternoon. For the record, you'll see appearances by Sarah Johannes ("best new chef" winner for her work at "best fancy restaurant" Five-Sixty), Graham Dodds (from Bolsa, home of our "best pizza by another name"), Randy Morgan ("best seafood" winner Dallas Fish Market, Julian Barsotti (Nonna), Jean-Marie Cadot ("best new restaurant" winner Cadot), Christopher Short ("best restaurant bar scene" winner Bella), and Randall Copeland and Nathan Tate ("best reason to get out of town" winner Ava).
For a more visual take on the Best of Dallas food, don't miss this slideshow highlighting a few more of our picks.
John and Carol Ryan have always wanted to open up their own wine place. Their dreams have come true in Denton.
Well, almost.
The place isn't quite open. And another possible setback comes to mind right away. Although its outward appearance is alluring (maybe Vigne should be called Little Italy with its old-fashioned lamp lighting, gateway entrance and tiny iron tables), the deli half isn't exactly out in the open. It actually sits back at the end of a long alley resting well off the street.
Sure, there's an elegant and romantic looking sign hung above the entrance, but is that going to be enough to attract speeding cars as they drive by? After all, most Americans have a five second attention span.
Where the magic happens at Dr. Bell's BBQ downtown.
Oak Cliff native Andrew Bell has worked for the past two decades exclusively in fine dining, but two weeks ago he opened a casual barbecue joint in downtown, Dr. Bell's BBQ.
Andrew Bell in his element, at one of his tables with a cold Corona.
"I was looking anywhere there was cheap rent because I was looking to serve inexpensive food," said Bell, sitting at a home-made table inside his restaurant on Wednesday evening. He took a few more sips from his Corona and explained why downtown made sense for him as the location for his first restaurant.
"I really don't listen to the writing on the walls, the naysayers and all that," said Bell. If you have a good product, Bell believes, your business will float, not sink. "People are going to find you...I think we've been warmly embraced by the working population and the residents."
Julia Child said the only time anyone should ever eat diet food is while waiting for a steak to cook. That philosophy works for the rare woman like Child, who at 6'2 could absorb the extra calories stuffed in French cuisine. She was a giantess, but by no means gentle. Child relished getting "good and loaded" and whacking "the hell" out of a chicken.
A good chicken-whacking session must burn at least a few calories.
While Child didn't worry about counting calories, she recommended eating small portions and cooking with fresh ingredients. That's good advice for the experienced cook or the single-and-swingin' guy who isn't quite ready to give up Jake's cheeseburgers cold-turkey.
Cutting out fast food and taking up home cooking begins with finding fresh and healthy ingredients, but the bigger challenge is understanding exactly what you're buying.
A chemistry degree isn't necessary to decode food labels, but appearances can be deceiving. Knowing what food labels promise--and what they don't--will make a trip to the store or farmers market a lot easier.
Organic...is it better?Po-tay-to, Po-tah-to
The current food fad is anything organic. There's no hard, scientific proof that organic food is healthier, but it doesn't contain chemicals. The U.S. Department of Agriculture enforces strict regulations prohibiting pesticides and chemicals from organic farming, ranching and processing. A green, white and brown (sometimes black) USDA organic label means the item is certified. There are varying levels:
Who knew a bar would combine uptown chic with beer belching?
Public House in Denton ain't no ordinary cocktail adventure. Inside you'll find a mix of
sophistication with booze, beer and more beer. Set up like a
restaurant, with tables resting throughout and the bar smack dab in the
middle of everything, college town residents are invited to sit back, relax
and chit chat with "A Little Less Conversation" mildly playing in the
background. Long live the king.
Some patrons have already been crawling
back for more, showing up two weekends in a row since the place first
opened.
That was two weeks ago. The new pub occupies the space once held by a nightclub called The Drink. Proprietor Byron Crain decided to transform it into a much more mellow setting for college dwellers to hide out in, combining
upscale food with cheap alcohol--and public relations out the
wazoo.
Raise your hand if you're sick to death of the big ol' fuss over "cougars."
Really, what's so morbidly fascinating about a woman of a certain age who likes to get her freak on? Forty is the new 20 after all, right?
All things being equal, we hope to hell we're not dried up old prunes by the time our bank accounts can accommodate some high-tone hi-jinx. Thankfully, in this era of "better looking through science," we know we don't have to be...And when we're ready to don our daughter's skimpiest mini dress and head out on the prowl, here's hoping Sambuca 360 is still around.
Open about two weeks in the old Martini Park spot in the Shops at Legacy, Sambuca 360 is the newest outpost of the classic Dallas upscale hang. In fact, we had a Deep Ellum flashback when Calvin himself greeted us at the door on a recent visit. The affable, towering gent was a fixture at Sambuca's original downtown location, and we're guessing many of the guests inside 360 remembered him from back in the day.
This week, Dave seeks out a bigger slice of the pie, with a trip to Eno's Pizza Tavern.
For the full Eno's experience, though, take a stroll through the dining room, kitchen and bar, and have a very brief encounter with the pizza oven's open flame, in this week's Dish slideshow from Sara Kerens.
What kind of food do people usually associate with a college town? Fast food joints and rundown bars serving cheap beer and gooey, greasy cheese fries--also cheap--come to mind.
But in their late teens, some of the Baby Boom generation turned to granola. And the current round of college age Americans have returned to healthier staples--as long as recycling is involved.
Spanning these two eras, Denton's the Cupboard is an organic grocery store, cafe and institution. Projecting an earthy feel with its recycled handbags, and homemade salsa, the place has been serving natural and organic products for over forty years.
We Texans love our "Mexican" food. That is, we love flour tortillas filled with breast meat and corn chips dipped in processed cheese.
Who wouldn't? Except, as we all know, that's not really Mexican, now is it? (And sometimes, as our own Chris Meesey would point out, the concoctions we adore aren't even really Tex-Mex.)
At any rate, several restaurants--new and not-so-new--are tempting those willing to step away from the comfort of the combo plate. From Central American home cooking to soups that channel the power of ancient Aztec gods, these new contenders are giving bland cantina chains a run for their pesos.
For starters, Mario Sabino's Mexican & Salvadoran Restaurant opens today in the old Casa Blanca space on Lemmon Avenue. Gloria's fans will be pleased to find another spot serving up pupusas, Salvadoran-style tamales, yuca frita and other delights. In fact, the menu looks a lot like the one at Gloria's, come to think of it. How can we tell already?
Best line overheard (well, shouted to our face) at the Smoke grand opening Friday night: "Who cares about resurrecting Deep Ellum when we've got this?!"
The gushing party-goer was referring to the booming Oak Cliff renaissance, of course. Granted, a great big free shindig at a buzz-worthy new restaurant isn't exactly an illustration of solid neighborhood revitalization, but we had to admit he was on to something.
Formerly the Cliff Café, Smoke is the result of a quick turnaround headed by chef and co-owner Tim Byres as well as Chris Zielke and Christopher and Jessica Jeffers of OC darling Bolsa. The concept is simple: smoked, barbecued and grilled comfort food inspired by the American South.
Rumors circling at the debut party had the RSVP list numbering in the high hundreds and the energy that night was amazing, despite intermittent but insistent bursts of rain. We arrived around 7 to an already bustling house, and by 8 folks were lined up outside the front door and the throng at the bar was three deep.
But this was no ordinary crowd.
As the Julia Child renaissance rush continues, Joseph Mason of Borders in the West Village says Mastering the Art of French Cooking is flying off the shelves. He's barely able to keep the classic best seller in stock, given the hoards of wanna-be French Chefs inspired by the hit movie Julie and Julia.
Mason, however, has a few new faves of his own back behind the impulse-purchase racks. Read on for his top late summer picks:
Seven Fires: Grilling the Argentine Way
by Francis Mallmann and Peter Kaminsky.
This hardcover beauty is full-on carnivorous food porn. Mallmann, a famous chef and television personality, presents countless techniques and dishes from a country renowned for its fire-grilled meats. Maps, instructions on starting and maintaining a fire and tips on tools and methods are followed by recipes for the likes of Whole Boneless Rib Eye with Chimichurri and Grilled Polenta with Burnt Tomatoes and Morcilla. It's the next best thing to gorging yourself at a churrascaria.
Camarones a la Mexicana, grilled jumbo shrimp with stir fried vegetables and rice
This week Dave heads over to Carolina's Mexican Cuisine, where the Mi Cocina co-founder has stepped back out into the spotlight with a striking patio, an intricate mole and a ceviche subtle enough that you can still taste the fish.
For an up-close look at a few of their dishes, plus a stroll through the kitchen and out to the patio, check out this week's Dish slideshow from Sara Kerens.
How far would you go for a really great taco?
Guess it depends on your definition of "great".
We're of the opinion that taco perfection comes in many guises, whether tucked in the corner of a Tex-Mex combo plate or served through a walk-up window at a certain area truck stop.
Tacos, by nature, are cheap, quick and casual, and for those reasons (among others), they're frequent fodder for debate. In this recessionary climate, few have the dough to rank the best dry-aged rib eye in town, but just about everyone with a few dollars and a stomach can get in on the taco game.
And boy howdy, they do.
From those little Fuel City beauties to any number of East Dallas gems, we love our local tacos and we love to pick our faves. And for a few miles more, you could be the first to "discover" a new and noteworthy entry in Oak Cliff.
We dine out, we dine in, we write about our food and we comment on the musings of other adventurous eaters. It's fun--kinda like a sport only we don't have to wear helmets or worry about paternity suits.
Much.
But as much as the food world revolves around glitzy new restaurants, nasty critics and nitpicky bloggers, it's also damn good at looking out for those who would otherwise go hungry.
Take Share Our Strength, for instance. This national organization is devoted ending childhood hunger, and its programs range from community bake sale initiatives to star-studded events in America's finest restaurants.
The group's A Tasteful Pursuit touring dinner series made a stop at Dallas' Stephan Pyles last Sunday, and local faves like David Uygur and Sara Johannes pitched in for the cause. From September 20-26, you can dine out at many local restaurants to support Share Our Strength during its Great American Dineout. (Visit www.strength.org for more information.)
In this week's paper, Dave drops in on Park, where chef Marc Cassel has returned to form with a loose, fun approach to running his kitchen.
For a closer, more colorful look at the bright, wooded space and the dishes and drinks turned out of Park's kitchen, check out this fine photo set from Danny Fulgencio.
How are the hard-working folks who can make or break a restaurant meal cared for at the end (or beginning) of a long shift? Do they send out for pizza?
Used to be, in the family-run restaurants of yore, the staff would sit down to a communal meal together each day, conversing and commiserating while sampling an array of specials. No really--it used to happen, and in some places it still does.
Often times, though, shift meals for a harried staff are an equally harried affair...and in some cases they're downright shameful.
"It was always a battle," recalls one former fine dining server with an impressive Dallas resume. (He chose to remain anonymous for reasons that will soon come to light.) He describes face-offs between owners and chefs when it came time to feed the staff, often resulting in inedible or downright bizarre concoctions.
The best staff meals this fellow remembers were at large hotels, and the worst? "Anything to do with Patrick Colombo!"
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