No Fuck You, John Tesar, Because Knife's Ozersky Burger Ruined Burgers for Me

Categories: Eat This

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Nick Rallo
The OZERSKY burger, with two happy coats of American Cheese
The first thing that happens at John Tesar's three-Brenner-star Knife, after you order a glacially-cold beer from an iPad, is a flight of complimentary crudités (fancy word for chopped, fresh vegetables with dip) hits the table. The place-mats look like woven, Elvish armor. Because this is Texas, the crudités comes with a boat sail of homemade beef jerky. A tray of bread shuttles around, and you get a butter structure that looked Roman. I grabbed a pretzel roll because who doesn't like pretzel rolls? All this happens before a burger that sets you back a mere 12 bucks, and it's one of the most fun and simply best meat experiences in Dallas.

See also:
- Our full review of Knife
- Chef John Tesar Told the Dallas Morning News' Food Critic "Fuck You," and Life Is Good

I sat at the counter facing the kitchen, which made the experience more fun. There are few things better in life than watching a cook not disturb your burger. I watched one of the chef's season it, a nice winter coat of salt and pepper (only) from what I could tell, and place it gently on the griddle. She only disturbed the burger's sizzling meditation to do a quick flip.

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Nick Rallo
Quiet, all of you. I'm approaching the cheeseburger paddock.
I ordered THE OZERSKY, which is the sigil of the great house of Josh Ozersky (food writer for Esquire and beyond). His namesake burger is completely genius in its simplicity. It comes with a couple slices of American cheese, sheers of red onion, and housemade pickles on the side. All on one of those buns you grew up with in the twisty plastic bag. No overdone condiments -- just mustard and ketchup on the side. It didn't need either.

I asked for medium rare, and Rembrandt couldn't have painted a better gradient of crust-to-rosy red beef. It was juicy, and had that crusty crunch that satifies right to the chromosone. You want this burger. Actually, you need this burger. I forgot about the ketchup, mustard and salsa verde fries. The pickles added a sweet, Thanksgivingy flavor and a nice clap of acid.

I needed some serious quiet time after cleaning the burger side of the plate, like I was at the base of a big oak tree. Don't talk to me, I'm burger, I thought. Which is when I realized I completely forgotten about the fries. I wouldn't mind if Knife just left the fries off, even though they had that big potato flavor cut with the acid of the salsa verde. Actually, I think it'd be great if the burger was placed in the center of the restaurant around a ring. You'd have to fight a huge luchador to win the burger. I'd chokeslam that luchador to get this burger.

After dinner, a clean white plate marked with four, thumbnail sized desserts come on the house. From left to right, they worked from deep chocolate to bright and fruity. Go indulge yourself at the Knife House of Meat Fun. You really won't forget it.


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24 comments
DemigodH
DemigodH

A billion thanks for this review. Just had it last night and absolutely echo your sentiment. One of, if not the, best burgers in town.

gabe48
gabe48

A good burger has to be wood grilled, to get that great flavor, like the ones at Peak's Wood Fired Grill or Neighborhood Services.

jeraldinechayes
jeraldinechayes

 Start working part time. I kept hearing other people tell me how much money they can make online so I decided to look into it. Well, it was all true and has totally changed my life.


This is what I do……. 


W­­­­W­­­­W.J­­­­O­­­­B­­­­S­­­­333.C­­­­O­­­­M­­­­

FATCUNTUSA
FATCUNTUSA

LOOKS LIKE SOMETHING I SHIYT THIS A .M.
ALL AMERICANS WILL LOVE THIS WITH A DONUT AND A PINT OF FAT

primi_timpano
primi_timpano topcommenter

Would still rather go to Off Site Kitchen or Maple and Motor. Or Kellers, Burger House, most any Mexican food restaurant (for a burger).

thechuckwilliams
thechuckwilliams

I must have this. I'm semi-erect as I read this. And I just left Maple and Motor...

carlwilliams
carlwilliams

did tesar himself write this? and whats his obsession with food critics? so he wont get a bad review, because if he does, he does he just goes nuts? what a dick.

CitizenKane
CitizenKane

The perfect burger will be served on a bun that has been appropriately toasted in the rendered beef fat....some searing of the bun is a must !

J_A_
J_A_

The bottom bun looks soggy. There are a lot shittier burgers in Dallas at that price though

Twinwillow
Twinwillow

Well Nick, I guess YOU won't be getting a FUCK YOU Twitter from JT.

Sharon_Moreanus
Sharon_Moreanus topcommenter

Jack didn't finish you off in the bathroom?

lebowski300
lebowski300

@Myrna.Minkoff-Katz Eating rare ground beef is as safe as drinking a mug of saliva filled from a jug filled from a thousand people spitting to fill it. So whatever you are comfortable with...

Steeve
Steeve

@Myrna.Minkoff-Katz  When it is offered by the restaurant.  In-N-Out here on the West coast serves 'em up as Raw as Monday night, but Texas chickenshit laws make them over-disclose shit so they puss out.


Red/raw beef is so much healthier than well done.

ScottsMerkin
ScottsMerkin topcommenter

@Myrna.Minkoff-Katz It was medium rare.  And is it safe?  what a dumb question. well is it safe to drive/cross a street/fly Malaysian airlines?  

ChrisYu
ChrisYu

@Steeve I never have any trouble finding a decent medium rare burger here in Texas. doubtful the demand for raw fast food chain burgers will be missed here.

primi_timpano
primi_timpano topcommenter

Is it safe? What about Bellon oysters, sushi, tripa and sesos tacos, blood sausage, any chicken, kim chee, raw eggs, farm fresh milk . . . . Maybe not, certainly not always, but they are delicious. Take a chance.

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