100 Favorite Dishes, No. 76: Steak Tartare at Gemma

gemma-steak-tartare.jpg
Catherine Downes
This is the best steak tartare you're going to encounter for a while.
To prepare for this fall's Best of Dallas® 2014 issue, we're counting down (in no particular order) our 100 Favorite Dishes. If there's a dish you think we need to try, leave it in the comments, or email me.

Those of you who like your beef cooked through to the color of wet newspaper might want to skip ahead to No. 76. The meat for this dish served at Gemma is as cool as your cheeks after a long walk in January.

Steak tartare is almost always plated with an egg yolk for dressing, briny things like capers or olives for salinity, and crispy items for texture and crunch. It's seldom done with this much elegance. Chef Stephan Rogers adds celery leaves to the mix, that add far more celery flavor than you thought celery leaves had. And the beef itself is studded with chives and capers for even more aromatics.

Even the crackers get top notch treatment -- they're baked in house and boast a big, bready crunch. There's at least 100 ways to assemble a bite from a plate like this, so order yourself a glass of medium-bodied red wine and get to work.

When you're done, don't forget to check out dessert. The plates look just as stunning, and they're every bit as interesting to consume.

No. 100: Pastrami Egg Rolls at Blind Butcher
No. 99: Chicken-fried Steak at Tom's Burgers and Grill
No. 98: Pasta with Uni Butter at Nonna
No. 97: Camarón en Agua Chile at La Palapas
No. 96: The Wings at Lakewood Landing
No. 94: Chicken Kebab at Afrah
No. 93: Trompo Tacos at Bachman Lake
No. 92: Fish and Chips at 20 Feet
No. 91: Canelés at Village Baking Co.
No. 90: Banh Mi from La Me
No. 88: The Burgers at Off-Site Kitchen
No. 87: The White Album at Spoon
No. 86: Ramen at Tei An
No. 85: Tacos at Revolver Taco
No. 84: Stuffed Chicken Wings at Sakhuu
No. 83: Korean Fried Chicken at Bonchon
No. 82: Grilled Branzino at Tei Tei Robata
No. 81: The Toddfather at Cattleack Barbecue
No. 80: The Biryanis at Chennai
No. 79: Shish Tawook at Qariah
No. 78: Arepes at Zaguan
No. 77: Goat Momo at Everest Restaurant

Location Info

Gemma

2323 Henderson Avenue, Dallas, TX

Category: Restaurant

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4 comments
EdD.
EdD.

Wasn't the Goat Momo at Everest Restaurant already #77 making this #76? Tough to skip ahead, as you suggest.

Greg820
Greg820

I remember walking into Goodfriend four weeks after it opened and from the vibe and service it looked like it had been there for years.  Same with Gemma.  Not even a year old and it is one of the best restaurants in Dallas with no sign of growing old.  A truly amazing place and a great dish, indeed. 

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