Cook Hall Has a New Chef and a New Menu, and They Want to Make You Fat (and Happy)
When the W Dallas reopened its restaurant as Cook Hall, there wasn't much reason to get excited. Dry charcuterie, bland sliders, soggy shrimp and other dishes that seemed less than inspired made the closure of the hotel's old restaurant Craft, where even something as simple as roast chicken once seemed decadent, feel like an even bigger loss. Still, there were a few safe dishes at Cook Hall that might warrant a visit, especially if you found yourself looking to kill some time before an event at the nearby American Airlines Center.
Beef short rib rigatoni
Now a newly appointed chef might give you an excuse to take a second look. Douglas Wagenhauser has been anointed as the restaurant's chef de cuisine, and has been tasked with redesigning the bulk of the menu, which will officially be released tomorrow.
Last Friday, when asked about the new dishes, the chef seemed to have a lot on his mind. Texas and Oklahoma were about to turn the State Fair and half of Dallas into a giant sports bar. "Yeah, I have to seat about 150 people in a matter of 2 hours," Wagenhauser said. "Twice."
Despite the coming tide, he was happy to talk about the new menu. Wagenhauser came to Cook Hall after working at Townhouse Restaurant in the Galleria, which he left before it closed this summer, Saint Ann's and The Landmark Restaurant in The Melrose Hotel. A news release detailing his arrival said he "loved making people fat and happy," and he was excited to work on Cook Hall's gastropub menu.
Wagenhauser says that during his teenage years his father often took him to London where he was exposed to pub culture. You might hope that his travels inspired him to put a little English on the menu -- some great pub ales, fish and chips, some unexpected expected sandwiches -- but some of the menu isn't changing.
"The meatballs," says Wagenhauser, "they're not going anywhere." Neither are other core menu items like a kale Cesar salad that have been popular at Cook Hall. Wagenhauser's new menu is constrained by the successes of former chef Rick Graff. A complete overhaul was out of the question, which puts a significant drag on the new menu's potential.
Last week Wagenhauser did tell me about one dish that sounds interesting -- corn flake-fried chicken, with pepper and buttermilk mashed potatoes and buttermilk gravy. The chef even tosses the Frosted version in with the regular flakes to lend a restrained sweetness to the dish. It's not entirely English sounding... but possibly delicious.
Earlier this morning a spokesperson for the restaurant released the rest of the menu additions. You're definitely going to get fat.
Cornbread with smoked vanilla honey butter
Fried Okra with housemade dipping sauce
Roasted Butternut squash Toast w/ fried sage and spiced pumpkin seeds
Green bean flatbread with cauliflower puree, caramelized onions, Maytag blue cheese and micro cilantro
Cheese and charcuterie
Artisanal Cheese and Charcuterie Board
Soups and Salads
Butternut and barley soup w/ roasted water chestnuts
Mixed green salad w/ cucumber, tomato, radish and lemon vinaigrette
Ahi seared tuna salad
Sandwiches / tacos
BBQ Pulled Pork Sliders w/ house-made BBQ sauce
Short rib Rigatoni
Papperdelle pasta, fennel, seasoned breadcrumbs, manchego cheese, roasted tomatoes mustard caper sauce, maitake mushrooms
Spicy paprika shrimp and grits with ettoufe
Fillet, Yukon gold butter potatoes with chives, rainbow swiss chard, madeira demi sauce
Trout with potato and corn succotash black pepper gastrique
Scallop with bacon jam and endive
Corn Flake fried chicken with black pepper and buttermilk mashers and house-made gravy
Rib eye, crispy potatoes, tomatillo and aji Amarillo compote
Maple, bacon collard greens, with duck fat and beer
Artichokes, finger potatoes, Asiago cheese, sun chokes, salami
3 Cheese Mac n cheese with piquillo pepper
French fries with garlic aioli and spicy ketchup
Cornbread croutons, black-eyed peas, local goat cheese, crispy chicken skin
Cook hall chips
Devils chocolate cake, brittle pumpkin seed, mascarpone
Orange budino, sugar frosting, blueberry glaze and salted peanuts, toffee chip
Pumpkin ice cream sundae w/ gingerbread croutons, house-made pumpkin ice cream, rehydrated cranberries and spiced whipped cream
Pear sorbet with homemade gin shot