Dee Lincoln Thinks You're Ready for More Burgers, and She's Probably Right

Categories: Food News

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Claire McCormack
I've been working on an upcoming sushi restaurant review, and while conducting some research I stumbled on a quote from former Observer food critic Mark Stuertz. In his 2002 review of his review of Sushi Kyoto II, he lamented the proliferation of sushi restaurants in Dallas. "It's not a trend anymore. It's a near onslaught," wrote the perhaps jaded critic. The quote made its way into Trevor Corson's The Story Of Sushi, to illustrate the rapid growth in sushi restaurants all over the country.

Just three years prior, Stuertz published a sushi primer, with a headline that likened the growth of sushi restaurants to fast fast-food joints. You could almost see his frustration percolating upward into a tuna-colored rage and you've got to feel bad for the guy -- how many words can you use to describe the texture of toro?

While existing sushi restaurants are doing fine these days, it's rare to hear of a new one opening. The luster of a new, exciting cuisine dulled and the momentum lulled. When the economy soured Americans looked for something that was at once budget friendly and decadent. The craved something that would remind them of better days, and wouldn't put a dent in their vacation budget.

And now Mark Stuertz' sushi is my burger.

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Claire McCormack
It's a wedge salad
Despite the Dow Jones Industrial Average swelling more than 100 percent from its low in 2009, our desire for burgers has only grown. Economics opened our eyes to the burger, but our carnal desire has kept that lust intact in a way that feels permanent. It's entirely possible that someone could win the lottery and still want nothing but burgers (with luxury toppings), and now burger restaurants are opening everywhere, all the time.

I can't blame Dee Lincoln for opening up a burger bar in the old Jo Jo space. If history tells us anything, she'll be very successful. I can think of scores of burger restaurants that have opened in the past two years in Dallas, and the only one I can thing of that closed was Elevation Burger. Burger restaurants are as safe as government bonds -- maybe safer, nowadays -- and the upside is much greater. The cost to set up is relatively low, and you don't have to develop too many new ideas because the recipe for a burger is, basically, beef.

I don't know when sushi restaurants ultimately leveled off, but it was a long time after Stuertz first voiced his complaints. Something tells me we've got a long way to go on the burger front, too.

In the meantime, enjoy Dee Lincoln's Steak and Burger Bar, which is set to open Thursday, September 12 for dinner service, and they'll add lunch service the next week. Juliard Ishizuka, who use to man the range at Dee Lincoln's Dining Room & Bubble Bar, will be heading up the new space. His burgers will set you back $12-15, while a New York Strip steak will set you back $45.

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Click to embiggen

Location Info

Dee Lincoln Steak & Burger Bar

2626 Howell St., Dallas, TX

Category: Restaurant

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19 comments
patricktx
patricktx

I believe that this location is the original spot for Mooyah's burgers

jeffoest1
jeffoest1

I have to admit that when I first heard of Dee Lincoln opening up this restaurant, I felt somewhat underwhelmed. Really still am I suppose. But I will have to admit, the menu DOES seem to hae some life in it....


robertkrenkel
robertkrenkel

Geez you cheap b@$tards. Im sure you know you can get a McDouble for a buck. Maybe you'll stop crying. If I pay $12-$15 and am rewarded with an awesome burger and atmosphere then hell yeah! Jakes will put you back over $10 for the #14 meal. whats an extra $5? Oh, and this may sound crazy, but if you don't like cheese or eggs, maybe...just maybe somebody with a high degree of culinary experience and training could possibly leave it off. Imagine that. Morons.

Warren Johnson
Warren Johnson

my burger is worth much, much more but I only offer it to a special few who can pay and know the value.

MBrentD
MBrentD

When will Dallas get wise and do one of these: www.thecowfish.com ?


neighthun
neighthun

$12-$15 burgers? No thanks. 

jamessavik
jamessavik

stopit with the eggs on burgers already! I yam allergic!


Warren Johnson
Warren Johnson

American classic burger. 12 bucks .....................my ass

mavdog
mavdog topcommenter

apparently Dee believes that every customer wants cheese on their burger.

yes, I've paid about the same price for the burger at Neighborhood Services, and it's a great burger, one of if not the best out there. but it comes with fries Dee......really, really good fries. think anyone wants to pay an extra 25% for your burger and fries? I doubt it.

what's the over/under on how long it will be open?

johnyalamo_2000
johnyalamo_2000

I would pay 15 bucks for a Sushi Burger. Hell I've seen Lobster Rolls for the price of these Burgers.

Seriously, 7 bucks for sweet potato fries? Even at Goodfriend they're only 4$.

jordanvdavis
jordanvdavis

Will suffer the same fate as The Commissary.  Too much for a burger

Nictacular
Nictacular

$15 burgers and $7 fries?

I don't think Jack needs to worry...

Oxtail
Oxtail

@robertkrenkel What's 5$? Why, its a delicious Lakewood Temptress on draft. You sell me a $10 burger meal with a free craft beer and your on to something. Most of the really rich people I know are cheap, ....that's how they got rich. This menu's price points are too high. Your not going to have an awesome atmosphere if there is nobody there.

mdd0124
mdd0124

@Nictacular 22 dollars for a burger and fries? She HAS to be kidding. HAS to. 

ScottsMerkin
ScottsMerkin topcommenter

@mdd0124 @Nictacular just another expense report restaurant for the business man.  aint no way in hell Im paying $15 for a burger AND then $7 for fries

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