Angelo's BBQ Is So Good it Should Probably Be Illegal. Then I'll Be the English Jesse James.

angelo's food.jpg
Kiernan Maletsky
I went on a previous trip to Fort Worth where I hit three places in a day, but against everyone's better advice I ignored Angelo's Bar-B-Que, on the wonderfully named White Settlement Road. On Saturday I put that right.

Why couldn't they just drop the White from White Settlement Road? Is it crucial? Did GPS get invented before they realized that was racist, and then they just went with it? If there was a Black Settlement Road, would we have kept that? Anyway, Angelo's is in a suburban nowhere, with a parking lot over the road that is half puddle, half pavement. They are so excited by beer that, on their sign "BEER" gets a whole separate section, in a rectangle by itself down the bottom of the sign, in case you would think for one second that a barbecue place in Fort Worth wouldn't have a huge selection of beer. You would be wrong. Potentially, one reason that the White from White Settlement Road had to stay is that Angelo's already bought their sign, and it was weird.

angelo's sign.jpg
It's a deceptively huge barbecue place, with one dining room leading into another one, which has an equally weird sign that says "WARNING: NO WAITRESS SERVICE BEYOND THIS POINT" as if you were ascending into the far snow-covered peaks of the restaurant or something. Never mind though, because all of a sudden I have a half-pound of ribs, a half-pound of brisket, a half-pound of sausage, and two sides.

See also:
- An Englishman Road-Trips to Cowtown for Barbecue-palooza. Eats Cow.

Now, I know I say good things about brisket a lot. But, cast your minds back, if you will, to the middle of last year when I reviewed Pecan Lodge and Lockhart Smokehouse. Those two places broke my tiny mind with the sheer edibility of their brisket delights. Since then, nothing brisket-wise has really matched up to those beef churches, and I've been reduced to comparing ribs to each other. Ribs, I ask you. Editor Joe wouldn't let me review Pecan Lodge every week. I asked. The brisket here, though, is right up there. Jesus Christ on fire in a ditch it's amazing. It's almost gloopy in its sheer fatty delight. It's smoky, perfectly cooked and tastes delicious with sauce or without. I would marry it in a heartbeat. If given a choice between heaven and hell, I would enquire which of those places served Angelo's brisket (their ribs are also pretty amazing). EVERYTHING HERE IS FLAWLESSLY COOKED.

Texas barbecue isn't just amazing food, it's the best food. What's better? Nothing else is able to make me fall over in my chair speaking in tongues. When it's done as well as this, it's unbeatable. It's the Muhammad Ali of food, only it's still going strong, and has not gone a bit wobbly. Yes. A Parkinson's joke, that's where we're going this week. Brisket is the best of Texas barbecue, too, which makes it the best of the best. I am so totally delighted all the time about barbecue. I bought a pound of Angelo's brisket, took it home, steamed it, shredded it and made brisket tacos. Then I wept for a second time. I am a proud man, who once broke my arm and did not even make a sound. But when I eat delicious brisket, that's it, it's over for me. It's like watching my soccer team get promoted, but in my mouth.


Location Info

Angelo's Bar-B-Que

2533 White Settlement Road, Fort Worth, TX

Category: Restaurant


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23 comments
Rafa_Septien
Rafa_Septien

Anyone else remember the sawdust on the floor in the Seventies?

CitizenKane
CitizenKane

Is that mangy bear still standing at the door entry ?

Angelo's was always a must stop on the friday afternoons we headed to the deer lease for a weekend of fun and games.  Gawd, life doesn't get any better than bbq, shotguns, camping, hunting, beer, and texas !

primi_timpano
primi_timpano topcommenter

What's better than BBQ. In Texas that is a superb example of a rhetorical question. The completely unrhetorical answer is "Tex-Mex." Unless one is fanatically immersed in the cattle business, I posit you will get tired of eating BBQ much sooner than Tex-Mex.

TheCredibleHulk
TheCredibleHulk topcommenter

*scribbles Angelo's BBQ onto go-to list*


Jesus, that beer looks fantastic.

AnonMeatLover
AnonMeatLover

Gavin, thanks for giving such a glowing review for my family's favorite BBQ joint. Since I was a child Angelo's BBQ has been involved in all most every major event in my life. Births, deaths, weddings, graduations, and most holidays have been consummated over Angelo's ribs and brisket. Keep up the great work.

gabe48
gabe48

Angelo's is good, but the best barbecue in Dallas, is Mac's Barbecue on Main St., only open for lunch.  The jalapeño sausage is "off the charts", and big meaty ribs, great sauce.

ScottsMerkin
ScottsMerkin topcommenter

Well I cant imagine what will happen if Watford win the playoff for the 3rd promotion spot, or god willing for you, move up to 2nd for the automatic promotion.  We will have some kind of football/bbq orgasm splatterd across the CoA.  

Oh, and I demolished a half rack of ribs, cole slaw, cheesy potato bake and potato salad at Jack Stack in KC, this weekend.  I also shared an appetizer of burnt ends with the wife. It was heaven, and heaven was on earth.  Also my 9 month old shit his pants right before we walked in.  Like shit everywhere, diaper blew out, it was up his back to neck and down his legs.  It was a disasterous start and lovely ending


Joshstruckoutagain
Joshstruckoutagain

Cold frozen mugs of beer and pretty fine bbq, couldn't be more than a few things better than Angelos in Fort Worth.

cbrandon60
cbrandon60

Angelo's is great.  And by the way, the city put it to vote in 2005 about whether to change the name. The citizens voted it down 9 to 1 to leave it.  The town is 70% caucasian. The name came about when there were two settlements (before Fort Worth).  An Indian settlement, and a White settlement. 

informed_citizen
informed_citizen

While you wonder about the giant beer sign, you forgot to describe one of the more beautiful things about Angelo's --- the beer itself. More specifically, the giant frozen beer schooners that makes whatever mass-produced lager that's poured in it freeze. I would image that could offend your UK beer consumption sensibilities. Regardless, as a proud idiotic Texan, it's one of the things I love about Angelo's. 

Twinwillow
Twinwillow

@Rafa_Septien  I remember the sawdust on the floor from back in the seventies. That was about the last time I was at Angelo's. I Also remember their ribs as being outstanding!

ScottsMerkin
ScottsMerkin topcommenter

@primi_timpano mo way,  the only thing better about tex mehx than bbq is the price, bbq is more expensive but never ever ever gets old

dallas_paul
dallas_paul

@cbrandon60 The town was actually named by the Native Americans in the area, not the white settlers. It was known as "White Settlement" years before it was incorporated. 

Everyone always assumes the worst regarding the town's history. Careful which way you point that finger of racism.

And yes, Angelo's is a local gem. They didn't accept debit/credit cards until very recently (cash only).

cleaver.gavin
cleaver.gavin

@informed_citizen yes, you're right, those were also excellent. I had a Shiner Bock one. I've just seen frozen glasses in a few places, so I didn't think it was particularly BBQ-specific. Although I guess it is fairly unique amongst BBQ restaurants. So there we are. A quandary indeed.

gm0622
gm0622

@cleaver.gavin @informed_citizen  

Gavin, even up here in the pacific northwest. We toss beer mugs in the freezer.

I do miss Angelo's, gonna have to make a 'ship it to me' order.

cbrandon60
cbrandon60

@TheCredibleHulk @dallas_paul @cbrandon60 Ha. Yeah.  Personally for this Native American/Irish/Scottish/4th generation Texas white boy, it all falls under the heading of "Who Cares" LOL  They build awesome airplanes and have awesome BBQ.

TheCredibleHulk
TheCredibleHulk topcommenter

@dallas_paul @cbrandon60 

Apropos of nothing, and not saying that this name is or isn't racist; Is it any less racist that it was the Native Americans that named it "White Settlement" than it would have been for us to brand a particular location "Indian Town" ?

dallas_paul
dallas_paul

@cbrandon60 Not directed at you, personally. But no one talks about White Settlement without racist connotations, often undeservedly.

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