An Englishman Went to Baker's Ribs and All He Got Was This Delicious Brisket Pie

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All photos by Gavin Cleaver
Brisket pie, you're good for me right? Right??!?!
Facing out onto a bleak parking lot and just the right side of the tracks, Baker's Ribs is in direct competition with Mama Faye's for the Deep Ellum barbecue coin. Thing is, neither of them seem to be doing particularly good business. Baker's had but one other family in there when I went in (my family consisting of me, my stepson Lewis, and our web editor Nick, who is trying to get Lewis to call him Uncle Nick to absolutely no avail). The other family seemed more interested in the free ice cream.

See also: Baker's Ribs is a House of Shame. You Should Come visit.

I got a half pound each of sliced brisket, sausage, and ribs, and unceremoniously plonked it in the middle of the table. There's a reason all my photos are out of focus - the meat is RIGHT FREAKING THERE, and I already know I'm bad at photography, so what's the point?! You've all seen meat before. Imagine what a plate of barbecue looks like right now. There, we're done. I never need to photograph anything again, unless it's extraordinary, like if some nutcase put brisket in a pie. More on that in a minute. First, I have to mock Nick some more.

Photography is even worse with Nick "Food Porn" Rallo beside me, offering me tips garnered from using his shattered iPhone. I spent an entire meal (North Main BBQ) the other week, after he told me my photos are always out of focus, photographing him and shouting "IS THIS IN FOCUS NICK?" I don't respond well to criticism a lot of the time.

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Anyway, while Lewis and his Uncle Nick were distracted by discussing the finer points of the plot of Zombieland, I got down into this stack of barbecue, and I am pleased to report that Baker's Ribs is all-round pretty darn good. Let's go in ascending order of quality. The ribs, presumably belonging to Mr. Baker, are good but not great, the brisket is pretty darn good actually, as long as you get a fatty piece, and the sausage is divine.

Ooh it snaps and it's moist and it tastes so good. It's a little spicy, a lot smoky, and I need more of it. Brisket pies, however. Well. I have not encountered these beasts before. It's a fried pie with delicious smoky brisket in it. Baker's Ribs seems to double as some sort of pie shop, with a cornucopia of artery-clogging delights available to you. I got back from a visit to the pie counter to find Nick trying to persuade Lewis to put barbecue sauce on his ice cream. This is why he doesn't get to be an uncle.

Minus the pies, this place is just a good to very good barbecue place, but with the pies it's quite the experience. I loved my brisket pie. It was much like a British pasty (google it), only limp and soggier and containing meat considerably more expensive than whatever it is we shovel into pasties. I shall name it Brisket Flaccid Pasty. They are cheap, and delicious, and you know what? It's barbecue on the go. For the busy consumer. You can eat it with one hand while reading the newspaper. It's a breakthrough in barbecue science. Go there.

As an aside, who takes the Deep Ellum Barbecue Crown, readers? I am swinging slightly towards Baker's Ribs, on the strength that their brisket is better, but both are very good. Either way, people need to go to these places more. We can't just be left with whatever the fuck that "put a curry in a cone for laughs" place is. Sort it out.

Location Info

Baker's Ribs

3033 Main St., Dallas, TX

Category: Restaurant

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7 comments
RcfromOC
RcfromOC

You went to North Main BBQ (my suggestions a couple of months ago)? m Why have we not read your review? Looking forward to hearing about that experience.

kevinsoy75
kevinsoy75

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halldecker
halldecker

When Bakers first started on Greenville,  it was close to the best in Dallas.

"The ribs are good but not great, the brisket is pretty darn good actually, as long as you get a fatty piece, and the sausage is divine."

 If that isn't extremely faint praise ...

Last time I was there (and it'll be the last time I was there),  meat tasted like it was cooked at a 'central kitchen' and hauled over.  About the same as the last time I was at Sonny Bryan's.

Mike Anderson's on Harry Hines is worth the drive across town.

G_David
G_David

"considerably more expensive than whatever it is we shovel into pasties."  In the states, we call those nipples.

elaine170
elaine170

@RcfromOC You're not a follower of Gavin's tweets, evidently. A couple of weeks ago, he tweeted that North Main would be his next destination. Since I, too, had recommended the place, I scored the cherished invite to join Gavin, "Richard," Nick, Jeremy, Ewan and Lewis for lunch on Sunday. I lived in that neighborhood until about 15 years ago, so it was a great excuse to return there for a great meal. Is Lockhart Smokehouse and Pecan Lodge better? Yes, but they're twice as far from home as North Main, but their BBQ is not twice as good. Sorry you missed it!

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