Dallas Suaqueso > Philadelphia Cheese Steak = This Should Be Dallas' Official Bar Food

Categories: Eat This

La Banqueta Suaqueso.JPG
Ignore the two pastor tacos in the background. Clearly I have a problem.
If humans are anything, they are adaptable. When I lived in D.C. I had a serious cheese steak problem. After a night out with friends, if burritos weren't immediately available I'd be willing to walk miles for a cheese steak. I did it many times. I'm convinced this habit has prevented a statistically significant amount of hangovers, and I'll continue to indulge my late-night cheese steak habit until no less than five years after a doctor demands that I stop.

The problem is, I haven't found a single good cheese steak in Dallas. (Finding a good one in DC was hard too.) But don't think I'd let that stop me from nurturing what is a very real need. There's a new meat and cheese mixture that I can honestly say is better than any cheese steak I've ever had in any city. It's called suaqueso.

I had something similar to La Banqueta's suadero and queso hybrid (clearly an obsession has started) stuffed between two tortillas at El Tizoncito a while back. I'd asked the waitress her favorite dish and she pointed to bistec con queso so I went for it. I took one bite and I called it: This is a cheese steak. It had steak, peppers, onions and plenty of melted cheese. All it was missing was the roll that defines the Philadelphian icon.

La Banqueta's suaqueso is even better because the suadero's crunchy bits add flavor and texture that's missing from El Tizoncito's version. It's also missing from most Philadelphia cheese steaks because cooks crowd the grill with meat, which weeps moisture, cools the cooking surface, and prevents browning. It tastes like steak, I guess, but it doesn't have an texture or personality. That's why I can say with a high degree of confidence that La Banqueta's suaqueso is better than any cheese steak in Philadelphia and maybe the entire world. I'm serious.

Maybe I'm just a fish out of water, and maybe this is some sort of environmental adjustment I've made to cope with a new life in Texas, but suaqueso makes me seriously happy. The only problem is my favorite La Banqueta location closes at 9 p.m. and the other locations are too far for a late night drive. So here's my solution: Let's make suaqueso Dallas' iconic barfood.

Every bar in Dallas should offer suaqueso, just like every bar in New York offers buffalo style chicken wings. If they do it right (and it's really not that difficult) they'd clean up. They'd give Dallas something to cheer for. And I'd be really fucking fat.

Location Info

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Tacos La Banqueta - CLOSED

4500 Bryan St., Dallas, TX

Category: Restaurant

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21 comments
J_A_
J_A_

This looks ridiculously good

primi_timpano
primi_timpano topcommenter

Dallas is bereft of many standard foods and cuisines. We lack decent moderately priced Italian, gyros and Greek restaurants in general, and a real deli. And this new comment system is unbearably awful.

Myrna.Minkoff-Katz
Myrna.Minkoff-Katz topcommenter

Pat's claims they use "rib-eye".  I don't know.  Geno's is catty-corner from Pat's at Ninth and Passyunk (pronounced "Pashunk") claims the same.  Chipping the beef on the griddle is essential to an authentic cheese steak.  Chuck-eye needs to be chipped.  I've seen it chipped.  Rib-eye is much more expensive and does not need to be "chipped".  

Myrna.Minkoff-Katz
Myrna.Minkoff-Katz topcommenter

That might be a delicious concoction, however, it is not a cheesesteak.  The beef must be Chuck and sliced thinly, and torn apart with a steel spatula on the griddle as it is quickly cooked (onions are browned simultaneously and mixed in with the beef, if ordered, which will ensure that the onions are infused with the beef fat).  The cheese, my preference is provolone, (Swiss and American are preferred by some), is added to the top to melt.  The lot is then placed into an Amoroso roll, and served.  If Cheese Wiz is the cheese choice, it is poured onto the meat after the meat has been placed into the roll.

 

This is the ONLY cheesesteak.  There are no other cheesesteaks.

kergo1spaceship
kergo1spaceship

Hey Merkie,

    Stupid comment system wouldn't let me comment you back. So,

 

Better than that........ Colorado, then Schlitterbahn.  And yes, I did smoke a whole chicken, then left it in The Cuchara River to cool, then forgot about it.  Damn near drove 5 hours to retrieve said chicken-crime!

ScottsMerkin
ScottsMerkin topcommenter

This looks like some good stuff. I need one now

kergo1spaceship
kergo1spaceship

I've always contended that it is borderline insane that in "the home of the beef"......you can't find good cheesesteak's, or brisket!  It's just dumb.  You go to East Texas....... barbecue places on every corner; go to Central Texas and people are just driving around handing out BBQ. But in Dallas, finding a decent cheesesteak is like looking for The Lost City of Eldorado. 

 

Fred's is Ok

Joe's is OK

 

But nothing transcendent!  It's like NOT BEING ABLE TO FIND GOOD CHICKEN PARMESAN IN BOSTON.  

scott.reitz
scott.reitz moderator

 @Myrna.Minkoff-Katz You should know that while suaqueso, and many of the dishes at La Banqueta are being prepared there is plenty of clattering spatula action. It's not quite two spatulas madly shaving away at steak on the grill, a sound I am very familiar with, but it's something. You might find it soothing.

primi_timpano
primi_timpano topcommenter

@Myrna.Minkoff-Katz Banqueta chips their meats on the grill. Also cooks the onions on the grill with the meat. While I didn't grow up with cheese steaks, IMHO the tacos top the cheese steak just by virtue of the accompanying hot sauce. And I would put a freshly hand made tortilla up against any cheese steak bread.

scott.reitz
scott.reitz moderator

 @Myrna.Minkoff-Katz Also El Tizoncitos version has peppers and onions, and in the world of processed Americanized cheese there is not a ton of difference between melty jack, and stringy Provolone.  They all taste like milk fat.

 

Go eat the suaqueso, though. You'll like it I promise.

Mervis
Mervis

 @Myrna.Minkoff-Katz

 So last week you were bemoaning the use of greasy meat and cheese on crust (pizza) and now this week you are schooling us on the use of greasy meat and cheese on crust (the cheesesteak). Schizophrenic much?

ScottsMerkin
ScottsMerkin topcommenter

@kergo1spaceship you made it back. Thought maybe some backwoods hillbilly in arkansas had ran off with you while you were cooking a whole chicken over a camp fire

Myrna.Minkoff-Katz
Myrna.Minkoff-Katz topcommenter

 @primi_timpano I suppose one could put hot sauce on a cheese steak.  There are versions that include mushrooms and/or fried bell peppers.  There's even a Pizza Steak which has tomato sauce and mozzarella on it, and chicken cheese steaks.  But the classic is still the classic.

Myrna.Minkoff-Katz
Myrna.Minkoff-Katz topcommenter

 @scott.reitz If you go back to my original comment you'll see I started out with "...it seems like a delicious concoction".  Honey, you were the one who started the competition by dissing the cheese steak.

Myrna.Minkoff-Katz
Myrna.Minkoff-Katz topcommenter

 @Mervis Hi, Mayvis!  Yes, you are learning.  Greasy meat belongs on a cheese steak and has little use on pizza.  

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