Dear Vickery Park, Just Say No To Cheese Abuse

Categories: Eat This

Vickery Park Brisket Sandwich2.JPG
The fries are actually running from the cheese avalanche.
This Sunday at Vickery Park the weather was warm, the breeze was stiff, and the brunchers were out in full force. I joined a small crew late in the afternoon and tried to make sense of their Crispin and whiskey lubricated ramblings. (They'd arrived several hours before me.) I was hungry, and there was talk of a decent burger, some delicious migas that the kitchen stopped serving an hour ago and a chopped brisket sandwich that made a few eyes get wild.

So I ordered a brisket sandwich, and I sipped on some cider, and maybe 10 minutes later a plate holding the meat and cheese orgy pictured above was brought to my table. The poor defenseless and delicate bun never stood a chance against the glacial flow of oozing melted cheese. A wet brisket mixture soaked the bread, weakening it against the slow-motion avalanche of viscous milk fat.

I was completely overwhelmed, and I hadn't even picked the bitch up.

Maintaining the integrity of Vickery Park's brisket sandwich was no simple task. The meat was absolutely suspended in cheese, which was shifty and constantly drawn to whatever side of the sandwich was facing downward. I had to take one bite, then quickly spin the thing around to take another bite from the bulge that was squishing out the other end, only to have to invert the hot mess to keep the bottom bun from giving way.

As the sandwich cooled a little (and I ate half of it) it became more manageable, but I had to wonder: Why the hell was there so much cheese on the thing in the first place?

Cheese abuse is common in bar food -- I've had some Reubens that were all out gushers, and burgers that get two slices of American when they don't even need one -- but Vickery Park's brisket number may be the most lacto-laden sandwich I've ever consumed. The dairy lobbyists that pushed Domino's to add more cheese to their pizzas would be quite pleased, I'm sure, but I think all that goop distracts from what should really be the star of the show. I mean, it's a brisket sandwich, right?

As I got closer to the finish line someone mentioned sriracha as a necessary condiment so I pulled back the bun and shot an arc of crimson chili sauce. While I could wax poetic on how the acid and piquancy brightened the sandwich, it would be much more simple to just distill that verbiage down into three simple words -- so, fucking, good.

But it would be better with a little less cheese.

Maybe.

Location Info

Vickery Park

2810 N. Henderson Ave., Dallas, TX

Category: Music

Vickery Park

1011 E. 15th St., Plano, TX

Category: Music

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21 comments
mark zero (Jason)
mark zero (Jason)

As I got closer to the finish line[..] I pulled back the bun and shot an arc of crimson chili sauce. I thought food porn was only pictures.

Josh's broken records
Josh's broken records

First Observeration: Scott's eating a "chopped" sammich..Hmm? WTF Scott, thought you railed against chopped?

2nd: Just like Texas chili shall hath no beans, My BBQ sammich needs no cheese.  Some pickles, onions and maybe a bit a mustard fosho, but don't need no dang cheese up on there. 

mmarks
mmarks

Mountains of melted cheese is just a way to hide or diguise the food underneath. With enough crap on top you can't tell if the brisket is lousy or the burger's tasteless. I love cheese (who doesn't?) but I don't want it melted on top of everything I eat.

40ozs&abagofjellybeans
40ozs&abagofjellybeans

Just take the excess cheese, and throw it on the fries(or dip them in it). Cheezy fry-izles with a brisket sammich, YUM

Kergo 1 Spaceship
Kergo 1 Spaceship

I don't agree that cheese goes on brisket; but, with that being said......you can NEVER have too much cheese.  And heck, if yer gonna have cheese, may as well throw some bacon on top-and jalapeno's.  Ranch.

Todd
Todd

It couldn't have been that bad if you ate more than half.

Gipson
Gipson

Cheese doesn't really belong on a SMOKED brisket sandwich, but then we're talking BBQ and it's a whole other ballgame. For just a regular roast brisket sandwich, a little mozz or provolone is always good company, especially with carmelized onions and some dill-dijonaise. But I'm probably only saying so 'cause I had that very thing for dinner last night.

Chris Danger
Chris Danger

Thats just foul...you dont need that much, if any, cheese on a brisket sandwich..then again, this is Vickery Park, where charging 30k millionaires big money for sub-standard food is a way of life ;)

evan
evan

that is disgusting. but I can't believe 1-a restaurant would think it's ok to put that monstrosity on any type of sandwich and 2-anyone, much less a food writer, would get cheese on their brisket sandwich.

Abe Froman
Abe Froman

Moderation is the key to everything... Why would someone spend hours slow cooking a brisket just to overshadow it w/ cheese???  I can't even tell what that thing is under all that cheese... it looks like a burger that just got done setting a new bukkake record.

Why don't you make me a side of crisp tots and put some cheese on it instead...

TheRealDirtyP1
TheRealDirtyP1

cheese on a brisket sandwich? wtf.Maybe a little sprinkled on, but that sandwich is a tragedy. How can you even taste the brisket? Must know the chef's origination, he can't be a Texas native.

Titus Groan
Titus Groan

I had a mild gag reflex, not to mention chest pains, just looking at that.

Yuck.

cp
cp

So... the brisket was good then?

Jagger
Jagger

You are evil... less cheese is never better!!! lol

Kergo 1 Spaceship
Kergo 1 Spaceship

probably the same lady that made me nacho's at the Holiday Inn in Trinidad Colorado.....she put american cheese and pepperoni on it!?

Scruffygeist
Scruffygeist

In most situations, yes. But a brisket sandwich doesn't need cheese. Much less a cheesealanche.

Guest
Guest

  WTF? Cheese cannot go on brisket?!?!?  I bet a habernero Jack would rock with brisket. Hell, has anyone ever tried brisket taco's with a little queso oaxaca?

Foodiecists!!!

Kergo 1 Spaceship
Kergo 1 Spaceship

SG's right.....the only reason I put cheese on brisket is to cover a flaw in said meat.

Scruffygeist
Scruffygeist

I said brisket sandwich there, Captain Overreaction. The brisket taco is a whole other ballgame when it comes to cheese.

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