The Sad State of the Dallas Doughnut

Categories: Complaint Desk

Thumbnail image for cheapbastarddonut.JPG
Like many food writers I'm sure, I've been watching Pulitzer-winning Jonathan Gold's transition from the LA Weekly to the Los Angeles Times closely. The death of the star system at the daily publication has gotten a lot of attention, too, but it's Gold's first blog post that has invoked deep introspection for me with respect to Dallas' doughnut scene.

The subject is a foie gras stuffed pastry, laden with forest berry jam, which is fried to order and then carefully dusted with ground peanuts that I'm sure invoke a baseball season that is at once so close and so far away. The doughnut is so sexy the LA Weekly picked it up shortly thereafter. One can imagine an army of Californians rushing to indulge duck liver in every way possible while they still can.

mustang donuts.jpg
Catherine Downes
A "chocolate icing flag" from Mustang Donuts.
It reminds me of a doughnut I ordered on more occasions than I probably should have at Cork Market in DC. Those doughnuts were freshly fried, too, from a batter that fermented overnight, resulting in a slight and sour tangy flavor and a lightly chewy texture. Dusted in cinnamon and sugar with the lightest touch of savory salt, and enjoyed with rich black coffee, that doughnut had enough character to create a memory that's stayed with me long after my Hijra from the District.

Or maybe that doughnut is still with me because the doughnuts in Dallas haven't provided a worthy replacement. While other cities indulge fine ingredients like foie gras, bacon and sweeteners with due restraint, Dallas has been offering up calamity doughnuts that look like this and this and this.

Certainly doughnuts are fun and should invoke whimsy, but that doesn't mean the pastry should be treated like a circus. And just because doughnuts were Homer Simpson's favorite food doesn't mean they should eat like a cartoon.

If colorful cereals have any proper place in the world, it's in a breakfast bowl. Fruit Loops do not belong on doughnuts. That goes for terrible candy, too.


Advertisement

My Voice Nation Help
20 comments
ball handling drills
ball handling drills

Its my first time seeing a Doughnut that look like this. Very Unique, It would great if I can taste it while i'm on travel :)

Alachua
Alachua

One of my most favorite snaks everyday is pizza or donuts so whenever I passby a store selling it I can't stop my self to buy some :) lol food carving they say.

Enah

nancydrewitwrong
nancydrewitwrong

Wow, you people complain a lot. Whats wrong with a independent, local owned donut shop making a few crazy donuts on the side? Bananas, peanut butter and bacon? Sounds amazing. And begging for dunkin donuts to move in your neighborhoods? You people should be ashamed. Sprinkles charges 3.50 for a cupcake and no one bats an eye. But one crazy donut and all of a sudden scott reitz has sand in his vagina. Shame on you as well. For a rag that depends on local advertising you sure dump on the little man. I bid you good day sir.

CheeryBitch
CheeryBitch

Meh. Call me when a gourmet beignet shop opens up. Now that would be kick-ass! Think if the possibilities.... topped with pralines, or cocoa (instead of powdered sugar), or pecan pie-like filling....bourbon sauce.. mmmmmm

Sybils_Beaver
Sybils_Beaver

Just give me more dunkin donuts please.  One by my house would be nice.  tis a shame that really the only time I see one is when going to DFW airport

Nicola-Jane Henfrey
Nicola-Jane Henfrey

Stores dedicated solely to doughnuts? Can't argue with that logic and I cannot wait to see some open around here.

Jake
Jake

Stop being a pretentious douche. They are donuts (doughnuts), not a culinary masterpiece. It reminds me of a line from Pulp Fiction: "I'm American, our names don't mean shit." If you want a breakfast pastry with history, try a pastel from Zaguan. 

Guyndallas
Guyndallas

[slow clap] Thank you. I think the crazy doughnut craze is just sad. Keep it simple and make it well.

Donut Lover
Donut Lover

Before you decide to pass judgement on the entire Dallas doughnut scene, I'd be interested in hearing which donut shops you've actually tried.  Have you even been to Hypnotic before or are you simply passing judgement based upon pictures your colleagues have taken?  While their more eccentric donuts often get a lot of attention, they offer a good number of more restrained donuts that are great, especially since they have opened up their own shop. Great donuts in this town often require a lot of looking.  I'll also agree that for standard donuts, without all the frills, Jerry's is truly exceptional and one of a kind. A diligent donut has to sort through a good number of boring premixed donut joints before they find something exemplary. But perhaps, in your opinion, that makes the state of the Dallas donut truly "sad."

NewsDog
NewsDog

On Custer Road just North of Lookout Dr in Richardson. The sign just says Donuts. Great, simple, yeast-raised, fried donuts without too much frosting.Open from 6:00 to Noon, or earlier if they run out.   

TLS
TLS

I've been noticing the donuts these days look like they spent time at an elementary school play date before reaching the customer.  And that makes me think of snotty noses and dirty hands.  Ewwww.

Phelps
Phelps

You want hoity-toity, stick to cupcakes.  Leave the donuts to us gluttons.

mark
mark

Well put. Keep us updated on anyone making a thoughtful, creative, well executed doughnut, rather than "treat[ing them] like a circus".

Mervis
Mervis

Try Jerry's Doughnuts at Valley View and Josey in Farmers Branch. They are not froo-froo upscale but they always fry them up right and the jalapeno kolaches are awesome as well.

gunnertec
gunnertec

Totally agree with you. After a maiden voyage to Portland in 2011, I found myself trying out the "legendary" Voodoo Donut. I've been wondering if the cereal donut places in Dallas are just copy-catting that.

Mervis
Mervis

Not like they used to be. I hear they ship the dough in from wherever. Pre-fab frozen donuts....kinda like Einsteins bagels.

Paracelsus46_2
Paracelsus46_2

Hypnotic Donuts is fantastic. Though part of me appreciates the article (I like pure & simple too), the OP should stop by Hypnotic. I'll know he did if a new article comes up about how his life was changed

NewsDog
NewsDog

Oh, I thought the commie, PETA, PC bastards banned fois gras in LA?

Titus Groan
Titus Groan

Oh great, someone just had to mention Portland.  Now City Hall will be trying to figure how to make our donuts "world class"

Now Trending

From the Vault

 

Loading...