Tim Love's Woodshed is Open in Fort Worth and Serving Straight Fat (Photos)

Categories: First Look

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Photos by Sara Blankenship
Woodshed Smokehouse (3201 Riverfront) held its soft opening last night on Fort Worth's Trinity Trails, playing to a large crowd of cowboy-booted TCU students and what was very likely the entire medical community of Tarrant County. Seriously, everyone was wearing scrubs. Or purple.

Chef Tim Love's newest project has the look and feel of everything that old money can buy can in new Fort Worth. Like barbecue and valet. Obviously.

Fort Worth is in the middle of the annual shitstorm that is the Stock Show and Rodeo, so the traffic was horrendous, but we braved the I-30/I-35 clusterfuck and dropped by. What we found was an airy, upscale picnic surrounded by the quiet, woody trails hugging the Trinity River. Woodshed offers diners a covered patio seat or open picnic table near the live music stage, while caged wood smokers in the yard give the whole place a my-grandpa-is-totally-here aura. Piles of wood camp along the smokehouse's walls, each pile with its own chalkboard sign indicating its type. It's an obvious, modern homage to an old Texas backyard, and it's really very comforting.

As you'll see on the menu below, Love has embraced his North Texas roots and built an homage to the classic backyard barbecue. However, something I never had at my creepy uncle's house in July was a slab of thick camp bread with pit-master fat for dipping. Yes, that's right, they serve a cup of fat. And it's dripping with salt and deep, smoky flavor. Paired with the smoked whitefish dip and a glass (or three) of the bar's toxic Texas Punch, you've already forgotten about traffic.

Woodshed offers a short but diverse menu of barbecue-inspired dishes, as you can see in the pictures below. If you appreciate cute things, each dish has a leaf next to it that indicates which type of wood was used in the process. The brisket-stuffed piquillo peppers were colorful and simple. The Coke Pork Bahn Mi with pickled chiles is served with smoky rice and more of that camp bread that is impossible to not chew on like you're one of those cows down at the stockyards. After all the smokiness and barbecueness and camp breadiness, the blackberry cobbler is tart and warm and served with a huge scoop of rich vanilla ice cream. And then your head explodes. Luckily there are a bunch of doctors around to operate on your exploded head.

Perhaps the greatest part of Woodshed is watching those poor bastards jogging along the Trinity Trails stop and wander into the restaurant with a "must find that smell" look on their face. I hope they order the cup of fat.

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The Bahn Mi

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The beer list

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SMOKE IT


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9 comments
Galangalkid
Galangalkid

He must have liked the food @ Fatty'Cue Brooklyn NYC. Oh BTW "Banh Mi" is spelled wrong on the menu.

biffula
biffula

I don't eat at foo foo BBQ joints owned/run by chefs anyway.  I want joints where the food is smoked by pitmasters.  This place isn't going to have A/C either.  Good luck kidding yourselves thinking there will be a breeze down by the Trinity in August when it's 105.  Good riddance to this mess.  

Austin Canuck
Austin Canuck

75 bucks for 4 people?  Are there refills with that?

tony
tony

Tim Love has to be the most overrated chef around, and he's such a one trick pony.  And why is everyone in Fort Worth fat?  My gf drags me out down there every now and them  and the bars there are full of fat chicks.

James
James

You must have a country girl which is your first problem.  Your second is going to the stockyards area full of the country girls.  Go Sundance Square, West 7th or any bar around TCU and you will find what you want.

NYC - TexAg
NYC - TexAg

Everyone loves this guy because he gets national pub on the food network and bravo. Being a Texan I wanted to like his food, but I haven't had one decent plate of food from any of his restaurants, including the one he opened in NYC which lasted all of 6 months due to mixed reviews.  I don't mind him being a one trick pony, just make sure that one trick is damned good.

Josh's broken records
Josh's broken records

You been to Lonesome Dove? Had the garlic stuffed steak?  Had the meatloaf? Had the Buffalo burger?  Had the venison ribs? Had the rabbit and rattlesnake sausage?

Josh's broken records
Josh's broken records

Damn, surprised y'all found something over here in the Fort.  I'll get over to it in a month or so, when you Dallassans forget about the new big thing.

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