At Deli News, the Bagel and Lox Just Might Make You Forget You Live in a Deli Wasteland

Categories: Breakfast

bagelandloxdelinews1.jpg
Alexander Nham writes about breakfast for City of Ate. It's not his full-time job, though. Although that would be a sweet full-time job.

Moving from north to south has been tough, no way around it. Some things I take as a birthright are nowhere to be found around Dallas: Italian beef, salted road ways, spring (the season), water and multiple legitimate ethnic neighborhoods.

So it's no surprise that one of my delicatessen favorites is harder to find in Dallas than a Smart Car. Everyone knows bagels, everyone loves bagels, so why is that I have to go to some chain "bakery" to buy some concrete inner tube that passes muster to get my fix?

My pursuit for a proper bagel led me to Deli News on Preston Road in North Dallas. Walking up, I was a little put off by the large, cartoon Guido holding a plate with a pastrami sandwich stacked taller than his face. It's a smaller restaurant with a combination counter and refrigerated case spanning one wall holding lox, cream cheeses, cured meats, pastries, all to take home.

The rest of the restaurant is all tables, chairs and weird kitsch knickknacks, all about as visually impressive as a motel commissary. It didn't look the greatest, but once I opened up the menu I realized where they were focusing all of their efforts.

Of course they've got the usual suspects, but I came for one thing: an everything bagel with lox. It doesn't sound like much -- halved bagel, some cream cheese, a deconstructed garden salad and a pile of cold salmon -- but one bite of this traditional deli favorite took me back home, or close to it.

The toasted bagel was crisp but giving in the middle, and the firm salmon wasn't overbearing and had a nice subtle smoke. With all the components tasted at once it was briny, creamy, fresh, smoky. The star of the dish was the bagel: It was strong enough as a canvas for all of the toppings, but it gave way once my teeth started making their way through. The crunchy brown bits on the cut side proved a perfect textural contrast to the pillowy interior, a sensation I'd long forgotten about All surprising when considering my seat faced a standard issued Olive Garden statue of an Italian chef caricature.

Deli News bakes its own bagels daily, and cures its own salmon for the lox, and this Old World effort resulted in probably the best bagel and lox I've eaten since I've been in Dallas.

My Voice Nation Help
19 comments
twinwillow
twinwillow

I'd hate to see the poor guy have to drive back to NYC thru Tennessee, Georgia, Mississippi, or Alabama with those NY plates on his salt covered Altima.

Storm_71
Storm_71

I'm pretty sure the roads that head north have not been blown up or anything so your more than welcome to get in your salt covered Altima and head back to your beloved north. Oh yeah that's right the economy super sucks the north and you can't get a job. In that case stuff a chicken fried steak in your face and shut the hell up.

icowrich
icowrich

@Storm_71 While Texas is an exception to the rule, the economy sucks the worst in southern states.  Missippi, Georgia, Tennesee, Virginia, South Carolina, North Carolina and Kentucky all have bigger problems than New York. 

NewsDog
NewsDog

One of the reasons you see so many classic cars in Dallas is because we DON'T use salt on the roads. We prefer our cars not to look like cancer ridden rust buckets.

And we have Spring. It was on a Tueasday last year.

Mervis
Mervis

Spring is actually occuring right now. Enjoy it folks.

twinwillow
twinwillow

I think winter was canceled this year due to lack of interest.

todd
todd

French toast on hollah and corned beef hash.  Anything else, eh. 

twinwillow
twinwillow

Deli-News also serves the best pork sausage breakfast links from Thumann's. They're not the skinny kind but fat and ohhh, so good!

CB
CB

Typo in the headline...

twinwillow
twinwillow

Definitely, the very best Nova smoked salmon in Dallas! And unquestionably, the very best Jewish deli in Dallas, as well.

mark zero (Jason)
mark zero (Jason)

They've got great whitefish salad and good matzo ball soup, too. But skip the New York Diner Classic.

Guest
Guest

Another condescending Observer blogger from up north! Great!

Nope, no ethnic neighborhoods in Dallas. You know, except for the Mexican parts of town, the Jews around Preston Hollow, Korea town off of 35, the Richardson Asian district...

Johnsidi666
Johnsidi666

Diversity in Dallas is where out of 100 people, 99 are white and one isn't.  The neighborhoods you mentioned are ridiculously small and negligible.  It's probably a novelty for people like you.  So long as the diversity stays in their little neighborhoods so you visit them like a zoo, I guess you'll be alright.  

DukeDude
DukeDude

You said it dude. Another northern fuckwit that thinks he knows everything from food to the weather.

What kind of idiot moron dweeb head wants "salted roads".

Now Trending

From the Vault

 

Loading...