RedFork's Pizza Oven Finally Arrives. Will Consistency Come With It?

In that story Carbery told City of Ate a pizza oven would be arriving any day. More than four weeks later, it's finally here.

Carbery's simple Italian menu approach is well suited for a pizza oven, but he's got a lot of competition in the Neapolitan style of pizza cookery. Cane Rosso has been banging out Dallas' most authentic pies for more than half a year, and Dough Pizzeria opened just a month ago.

For now, I'm mixed on the Fitzhugh Avenue Gastro Pub. My first visit was a little messy, but then I learned Carbery had yet to secure any replacement kitchen help. Subsequent visits have turned up a transcendent burger, a bone-dry burger, some killer mussels and a restaurant that's still trying to define its space.

Sports events regularly play on television, but on another night, a lone guitarist belted out b-list cover tunes. A late-night menu beckons, but I've been past after midnight some evenings and the space is lights out, nobody home. A new oven should breathe life into a restaurant that's been mostly empty during each of my visits. It's up to Carbery and his pizza pies to convince the newly curious to stick around.