Taco Joint Gets the Love It Deserves

Categories: Taco Trail

taco joint interior.jpg
Breakfast tacos are as Texan as Waco's unofficial status as Austin and DFW's bathroom break along Intestate 35. Breakfast tacos are as Texan as football and the state's other top sport, historical revisionism. I love Texas. I love breakfast tacos.

Love led me to Taco Joint in East Dallas. The much-loved restaurant is the Tex-Mex equivalent of heroin to junkies for neighborhood residents. A friend of mine moved from the area precisely because Taco Joint was a dangerous addiction for him. The restaurant, owned by Corey McCauley and Jeffrey Kowitz, is known primarily for two things. The first is breakfast tacos, chief among them, the MT, or migas taco. It was one of the two breakfast tacos I ordered that morning, fresh from a bike ride. The MT was a gnarled tube of chewy flour tortilla and a yellowish blob whose only flavor profile was salty, overly so.

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The first bite of the chorizo, egg and cheese (all breakfast tacos come with cheese) was rich, earthy, enjoyable, a refreshing reward for my ride. It was all downhill from there. Each successive bite worsened like a relationship that should've ended long ago, but sex, societal perks, or simple psychodrama keep getting in the way.

The Lester, a Quasimodo of a taco, composed of a crispy taco stuffed with ground sirloin, lettuce, tomato and cheese, a flour tortilla lathered with refried beans wrapping it all, is the other Taco Joint signature item. It is frightening. Aside from the slap for initial freshness, it had no taste. It was all texture.

Unlike Quasimodo, the Lester -- and Taco Joint -- seem to have little under the surface. It's superficiality perhaps sufficient for a short thrill, or for those who loved on bottles of this or that the night before.

Not all was disappointing. The house-made jalapeño ranch salsa was lovely. Unfortunately, love isn't enough.

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Taco Joint

911 N. Peak St., Dallas, TX

Category: Restaurant

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11 comments
editor
editor

Jose, It is a Gringo taco for sure but a good one. I am sure one could find more authentic tacos in the area, but you'd need to speak Spanish to order it. It's fresh, good food in a clean dining environment. You should have used some of the house-made jalapeno ranch to spice up your Lester.

Chinese Whispers
Chinese Whispers

I live a couple of blocks of from this place. Never been. You know why? It seems like a hipster, white bread kind of place. Lots of good tacos in this area anyway.

Elizabeth Bair
Elizabeth Bair

No matter if you like the food or not, you have to admit the spicy ranch sauce is killer

jamal
jamal

I do admit that Elizabeth. I admit the shit outta that.

BigChalupa
BigChalupa

I'm actually surprised that many of your commenters have never heard complaints about Taco Joint before. I've been there once and won't return — all my food was cold, flavorless and generally unappealing. The service was great, but good service doesn't make me hungry.

Coleman
Coleman

This is literally the first time I've ever encountered someone complaining about Taco Joint. weird.

PQ
PQ

Do they make their breakfast tacos to order? I have had them twice, each time they were not hot and seemed like they were assembled from cooked ingredients instead of made to order. The cheese on them would not even melt. I won't be back, salsa was good.

Jjerrier
Jjerrier

Jose - you missed it on this one! I lurve Taco Joint...mmm brisket tacos with jalapeno ranch!

DK
DK

Good service......But the food is pretty alright. Nothing spectacular.

m
m

I think you're the only person I've ever heard from who was unhappy with a meal at the Taco Joint. How sad for you.

cp
cp

Maybe you just haven't polled everyone in Dallas yet. I think Taco Cabana has better tacos that this, and that's where I go to sober up.....

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