Waxhachie Rancher Enters the Dry Age

Carroll Lewis, co-owner of the Marbleous Beef Co. in Waxahachie, is busily constructing what he believes to be the first dedicated, freestanding dry-aging facility in the Dallas area so "guys like Graham can do their artwork."

"With those guys' expertise, and our beef...," Lewis says, trailing off in an air-dried beef reverie. "Have you ever had bresaola? It's the kosher prosciutto. Man, is it ever wonderful."

Lewis, who was on his way to meet with a refrigeration technician when I spoke to him by phone, hopes to have the facility in place by January 1.

"We're going as fast as we can," he says. "We want it to be over and above what anyone would ask for."

While Dallas has long favored wet-aged steaks, which are sealed in their own blood, dry-aged beef is prized by purists for its rich, primal flavors and an earthiness that recalls other delicacies shaped by time. Eaters who revel in parmesan and Scotch tend to be drawn to the intensity of dry-aged beef.

Dodds, who already cures his own bacon, is looking forward to experimenting with Lewis' products.

"We're gearing up for it," he says.