Take A Big 'Ole Blunch At Tillman's Roadhouse
|Photos by Andrea Grimes and Man O' The Hour|
|Tillman's bangin' blunch Bennie and the Jets.|
It was one of those inexplicable early-morn hangovers, wherein you wake up well before you've gotten your necessary slumber, but just can't seem to get back to sleep. My Man O' The Hour was in a similar state, and we knew the only cure for our ills was brunch. But it was 10 a.m.! Dallas doesn't do brunch until 11 a.m., even noon in some places. We dithered around on the Internet, searching desperately for a brunch locale besides Denny's, and finally settled on Tillman's Roadhouse, the Bishop Arts Texas-fare fixture. By the time we called for the hours, its was already open. We couldn't get in the car fast enough.
But at Tillman's, they don't serve brunch. They serve "blunch." So let's go ahead and get this out of our systems, shall we? We took a big blunch. It was a smelly blunch. Occasionally, the blunch was greasy. After we ate, we were full of blunch. We spent Sunday morning blunching. We blunched for like an hour and a half.
At first, we were the only people blunching at Tillman's, which looks like an Urban Outfitters home decor catalog blunched all over the place, with hipster-frilly curtains, exposed wood and a lot of fake animal busts and chintzy chandeliers. Between the decor and the two awful Bloody Marys to start, Tillman's blunch wasn't looking to be a winner. But then our waiter brought us a heaping ladelful of absolutely heavenly fried potatoes, State Fair-style. In fact, the rest of the food at Tillman's would turn out to be top-notch. Only the drinks disappointed.
|A bloody bad Bloody Mary.|
Certainly, however, the food is worth twice the price. I ordered the $14 "Bennie and the Jets," a Tillman's take on eggs Benedict, and have rarely had a finer dish. Blue corn pancakes were topped with a tender, spicy pulled pork, runny poached eggs and "green chile bacondaise." That's right, bacondaise. Barbecue sauce on the side to dip, but I hardly used it -- the meaty Hollandaise was all the flavor I needed.
|The eggcellent sandwich.|
|Tillman's cheesy breakfast fries cure all ills, match you with your soul mate, thicken your hair.|
If Tillman's would step up and treat its Bloody Mary with the respect it deserves, the restaurant could easily move into the upper echelons of the best brunches in town. The dishes are easily as good as Hattie's and Smoke, but dropping the ball on drinks is a major blunch.