Mini Burger Backlash: The Big Ol' Mound Of Meat On A Bun Returns
|The Grape's newly famous burger.|
Hey, don't get us wrong--we've got nothing against two-biters. They're cute and small and often even feature fancy meats. It's just the "s-word" that grosses us out.
But whatever you wanna call 'em, there seems to be a backlash brewing in the form of classic American-style burgers in portions fit for a growing lumberjack. Perhaps it's a sign of the times. When the economy is down, we all turn to familiar, filling favorites to assure at least our stomachs that everything's gonna be okay.
And don't give us a tricked-up version dusted with truffle shavings when we're in the mood for comfort, either. We want a classic done right (but preferably not well done), topped with nothin' fussier than barbecue sauce or maybe some stinky cheese.
Last night we sampled the most buzzed-about local example of this new anti-trend at The Grape on Greenville Ave., and chef Brian Luscher's dream burger is worth the fuss indeed. The gut-busting 10 oz. patty was ordered medium rare and delivered warm and red at its core. Topped with homemade peppered bacon, white cheddar and drippy Dijonnaise, the creation was just about too big to tackle in polite company.
Good thing we don't know anyone polite.
We're sad to report, however, that Luscher's famous frites were off on our visit. They held none of the magic captured in our recent Appetite For Instruction. You can also only get his beautiful burger on Sundays and Monday nights.
Where to go for comfort on a bun the other five days of the week? Well, you can always count on State and Allen Lounge. They put a little pork in the patty mix for added flavor and moisture, and you can get 'em topped with anything from mushrooms (approved) to poblano pesto (bordering on fancy--order at your own risk).
To the east, we also lover Burger Island in Rowlett. It's worth a little road trip to sample a Big Island or a Jungle Burger at this off-the-radar neighborhood fave.
For North Dallasites, BJ's Brewhouse doesn't disappoint. The Grilled Burger Melt is like a patty melt on 'roids, all meat and cheese and caramelized onions with nothing green and crunchy to get in the way. And Kenny's Burger Joint in Frisco serves up a very pleasing sandwich...but you gotta pay extra for fries.
So, how 'bout you? Where do you go to get your burger on? No corner of the Metroplex is off limits--but anything involving truffles gets DQed.