Short Orders: Fuel City

By Dave Faries Mon., Apr. 13 2009 at 2:11 PM

Categories: Short Orders

Fuel City
801 S. Industrial Blvd.
214-426-0011

The filling stations/taco stand has quite a following.

In the wee hours of just about any weekend, people spill from bars and somehow find themselves here--uncomfortably close to Lew Sterrett, swaying in long lines, awaiting a little hangover prevention. In the daylight, the station becomes a stop off point for downtown office drones on a lunch break and Oak Cliff residents on their way to the liquor stores on Industrial.

And just to confirm (in case you've never tried them while in a sober state), the tacos are very good.

The beef version requires no help from sauce. Rich and husky, with a deep, lasting flavor, drenched in diced onion and fresh cilantro, these are satisfying just as they are. In barbacoa form, even more intrigue emerges from the filling as slow cooking and deliberate seasoning create a spicier, meatier, more campfire-y sensation on the palate. Only their chicken tacos could use a splash of sauce...and another, plus some meat tenderizer, seasoning, too.

Hell with it. Just skip the chicken entirely.

So there's an occasional setback. Big deal. Make sure you go some weekend afternoon. Maybe they will have a mobile DJ blaring music out front. The view of Dallas--with rusted trailers, raunchy shops and crumbling roadways below the city's skyline--is purely realistic. There's no dressing or theme here, just fumes, traffic, a few longhorns and the Mixmaster's steady hiss.

With the hood of your car serving as a table, it's one unique picnic experience.