Dallas Food Blog

Sara Kerens

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​Apparently the week's most stunning revelation had something to do with Houston Press critic Robb Walsh dropping his anonymity.

Now, I've never met him and I don't have much time to check out restaurant stories beyond those written in or about Dallas. But I already knew his face. I just happened to stumble on some pictures after he made a promotional visit to local bookstores.

I think images of all of us exist somewhere. I was at a party--not a restaurant-related party, mind you--before Leslie Brenner arrived in Dallas and overheard one person tell another "we have pictures of her to pass around." Turns out these were PR types.

Likely they were dated images. I stay away from cameras, but there were a few shots published (despite assurances they wouldn't be) from media gatherings in the past.

And therein lies the problem. Most of us had other roles before stepping into the food critic position--ones that did not require anonymity. Some, like Walsh, have the talent and patience to write books. Publishers then want to generate a little buzz with appearances and book jacket photos. And there are cameras everywhere these days.

Fine--I can wear glasses, not wear glasses, dress down or wear that faux-hawk wig I bought in Prague. Someone may still recognize me. Same goes with any other critic.

Long introduction. Sorta got rolling there for a minute.

So--around Dallas we all plan to remain anonymous. Does it matter if old photos exist (and are passed around)? Can those working the restaurant floor spot a critic based on those shots? In other words, is it really possible to remain completely anonymous?

Results from last week, in which we asked if foods were over-regulated by local, state and federal governments...

​Sorry--it's getting on in the afternoon. I should have started this sooner, but I've been working out some statistics.

See, last week one of our dozen or so readers, TLS, failed to make our list of non-winners. She then vowed to sprinkle her comments with the word "cougar" until she reached the status of non-winner once again.

According to some quick calculations, she managed a cougar comment rate of 44%--or roughly the same as Donovan McNabb's completion percentage on Sunday. For that feat, we will happily present her with the artificial corks from the first two bottles of 7-Eleven wine ever opened in the city of Dallas. They have an estimated cash value of $375.

For the rest of you, we have nothing. And we will be awarding it to the following readers:

​Generally when people sit down to discuss whisky, the conversation settles around the single malts of Islay, Speyside or the rare and unique brands from Campbeltown. But the overwhelming majority of scotch whisky sold around the world consists of blends--up to 50 different malts making up a single bottle.

Indeed, the best known labels are blended: Ballantine's, Johnnie Walker, Teacher's, Dewar's, Famous Grouse and the like--which rather makes sense. Historian and novelist Reay Tannahill once pointed out that the desire not to displease was more powerful and profitable a motive than the desire to please and masters working for these big name brands work, year after year, to create a consistent, rather than a stand out, product.

Still, though single malt aficionados discount blends, there is a lot of skill involved. It's not easy, after all, to produce the same Dewar's--over and over--when the flavor of each malt changes with every batch.

​The 'Boys venture into this series of dismal, dimly lit exits along I-95 on Sunday night. To help us all to know the King of Prussia mall city a little better...


A recent government study cited Philadelphia as the city with America's highest rate of alcoholism. In a footnote, this same study pointed out that alcoholism was not a problem in this case, it being a necessary catalyst for procreation.*

*We can't seem to locate this document, but remember very clearly either reading it, having it read to us, or listening to someone talk about having read it.

A fireside Taxi Cab

​It was a brisk night. Jessica and I had set out to see John Spriggins' Paper Dolls exhibition at the South Dallas Cultural Center. We made several illegal u-turns before successfully achieving our goal (the SDCC is precariously located at a wonky intersection) and perusing the collages of women's magazine propaganda filling the life-size silhouettes of real ladies. We discussed their shapes, heights, outlines of their hair dos. And then, because it was the middle of the week, we let the security guard close the gallery and we decided to go have a drink. And some food...but that was mostly my idea. All those sexy, waist-crunching headlines had made me hungry. You know, like they do.

So we headed away from Fair Park and over to the Henderson Avenue area. We deliberated on the Old Monk and Park and Barcadia, but decided on Capitol Pub. We scored a street spot -- Jessica adamantly avoids valet like most native OED-ites -- and walked down the block. It was a bit chilly and the roaring fire on the patio had looked so nice when we drove by, so we had our fingers crossed we might sit outside but near the hearth. Lo and behold we slid right into the table next to the fireplace -- like a World Series player might slide into home, but with far less enthusiasm and energy...and totally different clothes. The table also happened to be right below the TV so I had the opportunity to see the last of said World Series (but not really, because I promised my grandmother I wouldn't actively watch the Yankees, and also that would be just plain rude since Jessica had her back to it and would totally notice if I just stared at it the whole time -- clearly, there are many reasons). More important, I could see -- without incident or broken promises -- the animated reactions of the guys at the table behind us and a commercial for the next episode of House, which has been unfortunately been postponed the whole time this freakin' series has been underway. Damn, I love Hugh Laurie.

We ordered our drinks -- Jess opted for the Left Hand Milk Stout and I went with a Taxi Cab, Stella and Ace Pear, the chill of autumn and the roar of the fire steering me toward cider floats. I initially wanted a Snakebite (half Ace Pear and half Harp) or a Black Velvet (Ace Pear and Guinness) but had never had a Taxi Cab, and well, I love a good Stella Artois, so I was curious to see how it blended with the Ace Pear.

Jesse Hughey

Stone Vertical Epic 09-09-09 Belgian-style imperial porter.

​San Diego's Stone Brewery is known for creating some monstrously, even arrogantly hoppy brews. So it was somewhat of a surprise when I sat down to try a pint of the recent 09-09-09 Vertical Epic Belgian-style imperial porter, and the first adjective that came to mind was "subtle."

Expectations are a big part of that. I went to lunch at The Ginger Man today anticipating my first-ever taste of Oskar Blues' Ten FIDY, which is by most accounts a wonderfully robust Russian Imperial Stout created by one of my favorite breweries. But it was not to be, as the bartender told me the bar wouldn't be ready to sell them until tomorrow.

But when life gives you lemons, beer lovers make shandies. So I ordered one of the Stone Vertical Epic porters, one of the pub's most recent arrivals.

Alex Flores

​Yesterday it came to our attention that 7-Eleven planned to introduce their own wine brand, priced at a Thunderbird-like $3.99 a bottle--that's right, $3.99 for .75 of Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon in glass with a real artificial cork.

No screw-tops for wine this fancy.

They call their brand Yosemite Road, as it is cellared by the Yosemite Road Vineyards in Livermore, California--somewhere between San Jose and Modesto, in other words. But local 7-Elevens already stock a Modesto wine under the Barefoot label...and priced at a whopping $6.99.

So, two brands from the roughly the same part of California. Both priced under $10, which seems to be the Mendoza line of wines. How do they stack up?
 

​May seem bizarre to some that I would compare a South Indian dinner to my Mexican grandmother's breakfast taquitos, but that's exactly what came to mind while chowing down on my potato-filled dosa at Madras Pavilion.

Growing up, my brother Michael and I hated eggs. Still do, in fact. Whenever Grandma would incorporate chicken placenta into our meals, we'd about lose our shit! Eventually she caught on and began experimenting with spices and add-ins to make our meals look and taste as lively as Mom's and Aunt Sylvia's.

One our favorites was Grandma's Papas sin Huevo, a mix of sautéed potatoes, carrots, and peas with garlic, cumin, cayenne, turmeric, and a pinch of cinnamon. Grandma steamed the potatoes and carrots first and went easy on the oil, making the mix mushy and packed with flavor. Loaded onto on an extra-large, homemade flour tortilla...holy hell, it was freakin' awesome!

A lot like my grandmother's Papas sin Huevo taquitos, Madras Pavilion's Mysore Masala Dosa (a large crepe made of rice and lentils, then lathered with a spicy paste) is filled with a mashed mix of potatoes, onions, carrots, peas, cumin, and mustard seed--with sides of lentil soup, red onion sauce, and coconut sauce are served alongside for dipping.

Recipe Demonstrated by Yolanda Perez, Ray Hernandez and Kacey Iacomini of Picasso's Pizza and Grill

​When you move to a new neighborhood there are certain businesses you seek out immediately, such as a grocery store, cheap gas station, dry cleaners, liquor store and a restaurant that delivers.

Often our only options of food delivery are pizza or Chinese. Which sucks when you're in the mood for a taco and not wanting to leave the couch because a Real Housewives of Atlanta marathon is on. And this is where Picasso's Pizza and Grill steps in.

Picasso's started twenty years ago in Lake Highlands. After just a few years in business, one of the delivery drivers, Andrew Albert, decided to buy the restaurant from the original owners. He turned it from a hole in the wall pizza joint to a budding chain with three locations spread about Dallas (who doesn't love a good rags to riches story).

Notice that it's Pizza and Grill. They have a wide selection of burgers, sandwiches, pasta, appetizers and much more to choose from--yet pizza and calzones still bring in 40% of their sales. The one pizza that people seem apprehensive about is the taco pizza. "They will order one among other pizzas for a party or an event to try it out," Iacomini says. "And then the next time they end up ordering multiples of it."